Lee Wehr

Just wanted to see what the .025 tip did, really. The flow was quite subsided compared to the bigger one. So your recommendation is to make a new mixing tube with the air inlet holes behind the MIG tip?

Here is the nozzle and current flame at. 025 MIG. 20190215_213633.mp4

Haven't done the math yet, but I'll line the interior with 2" worth of kaowool, followed by refractory.

It will eventually go into the forge I'm building.

Thanks. Maybe a result of what we are already discussing, but I was getting flames creeping up and through the 1/4" gap between the nozzle and mixing tube. Last night I welded it on.

I have some more pipe. Back to the drawing board!

Forming was quite easy actually,... Haha Stainless Steel 304/304L Pipe... Link remoced Understand what you are saying, however, even though the air inlet holes are pretty far forward, the nipple is 4", bringing the MIG tip just right behind them. Still no good you think?

Nice to know I made a one off design. I looked at several since beginning this quest, even almost bought one pre-made, but decided to create my own since my forge in general is of my mind's eye. Should I try going smaller on the MIG tip? I have a couple .025s sitting around. Concur on the ventilation; the back of my garage isnt' the ideal place, but that's where my vise is. Once the forge is up and running, I'll move the whole thing to the shed out back, being able to move it outside when I start forging. The MIG tip is sitting on a 1/4" cap, drilled and threaded to match the lincoln tips, on top a 4" nipple. It rests just about at the end of the first series of holes. I'll have to snap a close up photo and post it when I get home.

Not sure which design this is called or who's it follows, but this is what I came up with. All of the brass plumbing is 1/4" leading to black steel reducers up to 1". The SS flair is 1.25" to 1.5". Currently using a .035 MIG tip as I had a bunch of those laying around. Frosty and Mike recommended a .045 tip in another member's post (for a 1" pipe). Will there be a noticeable difference between the two sizes? Using a standard Blue Rhino 15-lb tank and 20psi regulator. Pay no mind to the flames coming out of the breather holes in the photo. That was before I made the choke collar; the video is after. 20190211_210431.mp4

First couple questions already answered! Thanks!!

Hello and good day, ladies and gentlemen! I am an all-around, backyard mechanic, fabricator, tinker'er, etc. I rebuilt a '96 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 4x4 conversion, 4.7L stroker, 4" lift, trussed high-pinion Dana 30, 3-link up front, and future plans for a bullet-proof D44HD, 4-link rear and 4.56 gears. I also built several over-powered electric ATVs for my kids; the current project is a Razor MX650 with a 2000w brushless system powered by 60v pb (during testing; then 75v lipo). If there is a "garage project" to wrap my hands (and head) around, I am excited for the challenge. Suscribed to YouTube channels like Alex Steele's and been lingering around IFI and https://www.bladesmithsforum.com/ for a while now. To note, haha - I am not a "product" of Forged in Fire. I watched a couple episodes when it first aired, that's it. Blacksmithing is always something I've been intersted in, just never had the means to get into it until now. I had an old propane tank sitting around so I decided to turn it into a forge. Very simple setup with a welded frame with rollers. I still have to cut a hole for the torch, weld in the support shaft and paint it high-temp I picked up at Lowe's. Thus far, quite pleased with the progress. Couple questions for the vets as I go forward: - Should I cut another hole (access) in the back of the tank or simply keep the single access? Obviously I am not making a sword anytime soon, so I can't see the need for pass through beyond the length of the tank. My question is for heat dissipation - don't need the heat building up so much it blows the access open. - In preparation for the tank itself, I bought some kaowool (1"x 12"x 24" Ceramic Fiber Insulation Blanket 2400F) and 'MEECO'S RED DEVIL 1352 Furnace Cement and Fireplace Mortar' from Amazon. After reading https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/51493-blown-propane-forge-question/?tab=comments#comment-546241 and https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/47439-forges-101/?page=27, I learned I need some fumed silica rigidizer for the kaowool before the refactory cement. Will the Meeco's product work? After reading many posts and reviewed blueprints for home torches, I settled for a design I liked the best. Understand Frosty is the T-burner God, so this design may not be up your alley; however, any input/comments is appreciated. All of the brass plumbing is 1/4" leading to black steel reducers up to 1". The SS flair is 1.25" to 1.5". Currently using a .035 MIG tip as I had a bunch of those laying around. Frosty and Mike recommended a .045 tip in another member's post (for a 1" pipe). Will there be a noticeable difference between the two sizes? Also using a standard Blue Rhino 15-lb tank and 20psi regulator. Pay no mind to the flames coming out of the breather holes in the photo. That was before I made the choke collar; the video is after. I still need an anvil, hammers, tongs, etc. There are rather large antique/junk houses in Bird-in-Hand, PA, about a three hour drive for me. Thinking of stopping in to see what they have. Appreciate your time and help. Looking forward to hearing from you! 20190211_210431.mp4