T burner tuning question

[Mikey98118]

Buzzkill'

His present problem  has nothing to do with the length of the burner's MIG tip. Pleas read my posts again; your question has already been answered in them.

[Buzzkill]

12 hours ago, Mikey98118 said:

You already know that you must replace the MIG contact tip with a longer one, which can be gradually shortened in order to tune the burner for best performance; this is needed because the tip is already likely to be too short to begin with.

I'm still not understanding, Mike.  It certainly appears as though you are saying he definitely needs a longer MIG tip.  Are you saying that once the centering issue is remedied he will have a lean burning flame and will then need to replace the tip for tuning purposes?

[Frosty]

The problem has nothing to do with the jet's depth in the T (mig contact tip length) it's purely an alignment problem. A jet this far back should be running lean. The gas jet is scrubbing down one side of the burner tube and not inducing combustion air. No change in jet or mixing tube length will fix the problem. Straight down the center of the tube is the #1 most important thing to get right. Yes?

Bob: Center your floor flange under the drill bit, mount the nipple and T and do NOT remove it. File the center of the T flat and center punch it. Adjust it to center in the drill press by putting a scribe or sharp center punch in the drill chuck and pinning the T and floor flange in position while you clamp it to the table.

My eyes have gotten to where I can't center punch very well so I made a center punch that chucks up in my drill press. I can put the point of the punch directly over center and use the drill press to punch it. I do NOT recommend abusing your drill press this way but I have to do what I have to do. You need a better quality drill press than mine to use a pilot bit and not center punch like I did in the lathe. What we're doing here is using a drill press like a vertical lathe and have to make adaptations in our processes. Yes?

Anyway, once the T is centered and clamped down do NOT remove it. Drill and tap using the drill chuck for both. Install the brass fitting I hope you picked one the tap's, pilot drill bit either wouldn't slip into or fit nearly perfectly. Pilot drill and tap it, again using the drill chuck to hold the tap. 

If you use this method the mig contact tip will be aligned close enough to dead center as is reasonable to expect outside a machine shop. When tuning, the farther back from the throat (the tube's end in the T) the leaner the air fuel mix. Trim it back in small increments till you like it.

Frosty The Lucky.

[Mikey98118]

Thanks for engaging, Frosty. Now I can slip out the back; at least until he gets past the burner. Then I feel it will be time for a group effort for the lot of us to encourage him to change out that horrible burner tube for something good

[CactusBob]

Thanks for the input, life has jumped in the way the last couple days. I will pick up a new tee and pay better attention to lining it up both ways this time and setup a new mug tip. I found my tip files so that should be good. I am slowly learning how much I don't know. Thank you guys for all your help

Bob

[CactusBob]

OK, so after a few hectic days I was able to get a new TEE and get it drilled and tapped, it looks extremely close to center, at least better than the last ones. The last pic is of the flame with

the full length mig tip. Now that I am at the point of cutting the tip, what should I be looking at for the flame? One thing I did notice is the flame changes and the roar changes with how far the nipple end is in the forge shell. I currently have it about a 1/4" inside the shell, does that seem right?

 

 

recap

3/4 run X 1/2 Chase tee, .023 mig tip, 41/2" nipple

 

Thanks for the help

Bob

[Gippeto]

This might offer some help...

https://ronreil.abana.org/design1.shtml#Flame

 

Regards,

Al

[CactusBob]

So tonight I was able to fire up the forge again. With the full length mig tip the flame was about 2 to 4 inches from the end of the tube, until the forge heated up then it pulled back to the edge of the tube. It was also pulsing pretty bad. I cut the tip back some and it seemed to smooth out.

 

Here is where I cut the mig tip and the resulting flame and dragons breath, the dragons breath is  not anywhere near as much as it was before,

Did I cut to much off the mig tip, or should I go up to a bigger one, a piece of rebar came out of the forge with rust so I am guessing this is to lean and oxidizing really bad?

Any ideas or suggestions are very welcome and very much appreciated

 

Bob

 

[Mikey98118]

On 11/28/2018 at 10:12 AM, Frosty said:

I do NOT recommend abusing your drill press this way but I have to do what I have to do.

Actually, there are spring loaded center punches that have a hammer mechanism, which trips when the spring is depressed enough; they come in fine points as well as standard points. I would think that using one of these would cause no stress for even a cheap drill press?

[Mikey98118]

Fine points? That should read "prick punches."

[CactusBob]

 this last one I used a small drill bit to ensure everything was lined up, my center punch is to big for the chuck of my drill press also I made sure that the table was low enough to change bits with out moving it. I think I cut to much off the tip giving me the flames in the last pic so I have another one that I will cut smaller sections off. Thanks for all you guys help

Bob