Dantheman Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 So I've done some forging with charcoal and a blower in a cylinder it was fun but difficult to get to a good forge temp so not as fun as I'd like. Now I plan to make my first forge and have done research but the internet can be a double edge sword and there is such thing as TMI. At this point Im ready to just buy one of those small forges on ebay to just get started. My main concern is sealing the ceramic blanket. Some information I got says you need to apply rigidizer then refractory to keep the fibers from breaking off and to improve the life of your forge some say just rigidizer is enough. In all honesty i just want the quickest and cost effective way to start forging Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzkill Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 It sounds like you want to build or buy a propane forge, but you posted this under the Solid Fuel Forges section. I just want to make sure we're on the same page here. Fiber blanket is completely unnecessary for a solid fuel forge, but if you are contemplating a gas forge, then yes, you want to apply rigidizer to the blanket. You can get away with just the rigidizer on the blanket for a while, but you will definitely significantly improve the longevity of your forge by using a castable (and preferably insulating) refractory layer inside the blanket. You will inevitably poke hot steel into the walls of your forge at some point. Rigidized blanket does not offer much protection against that kind of damage, while the castable refractory does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dantheman Posted November 8, 2018 Author Share Posted November 8, 2018 Its my first time posting so I wasnt sure how to navigate the page too well but yea propane is the way i'd like to go and Im wondering if I can just get away with putting the castable or would I need both. Also any tips on how to make sure the blanket doesnt droop or sag from the top of the tank? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzkill Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 The blanket should be cut so that it is just a little bit too long so you have to press it in to place to get it to fit. I use 2 layers of one inch thick 8 pound density blanket. I've never had an issue with the blanket trying to sag to this point. Install a layer of blanket, spray on the rigidizer, fire up the forge for a few minutes to get the rigidizer set and the blanket dried out, then install the next layer and repeat. It can be a little bit trickier to get the castable refractory in place in one shot, but there's nothing wrong with doing it in 2 sessions. You can create the floor you want, let it sit for a few hours or a day and then do the rest of the forge. For small cylinder forges I find it easier to do if the forge body can be rotated as the refractory is being applied. If you have it mounted and fastened into place it can be a bit difficult to get a good layer on the ceiling area especially. If you haven't done so already, you should peruse the topic below to get the most out of the forum -- and welcome to the forum and the addiction! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daguy Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 I just finished my first forge and found the information in the "Forges 101" and "Burners 101" threads in the Gas Forges section of this forum invaluable. I was thinking of buying one and the iforgeiron community helped me to see how building one would give me better quality for money spent, a safer forge (your concern with rigidizer), and efficiency that means less $ spent on fuel. Also, I would recommend Frosty's NARB thread. I ended up building a 3/4" T-Burner, Naturally Aspirated Ribbon Burner driven Forge housed in a shell made from a 20# Propane tank. For all of my projects so far, it's been more than enough, and I can get welding temps out of it and stand next to it and have a conversation at normal tones and volume of voice while it's running full out. It Maintains a good flame from <1 to 20 Lbs of pressure and would probably keep going if my regulator went above 20 lb. That wouldn't be necessary , though as it has plenty of heat as is. Also, not being tied to a blower and hence electricity, it is portable and can be taken wherever I want to heat things up. BTW, I started out knowing NOTHING. I was looking to buy. The experts on this forum are very generous in helping us newbies get a strong start in this craft. Special thanks go to Frosty, Mikey, Thomas, and Buzzkill. Those guys are very generous with their time and advice. Daguy p.s.(check out my build thread: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dantheman Posted November 9, 2018 Author Share Posted November 9, 2018 I found grainger near me sells 2" thick blanket would one layer of this suffice? And as for a ridgidizer any suggestions on types and where to look for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted November 9, 2018 Share Posted November 9, 2018 Buying a small gas forge is a good move. Paying a few dollars to rigidize it with fumed silica is smart. Spending a few more dollars to to seal it is even smarter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dantheman Posted November 9, 2018 Author Share Posted November 9, 2018 I found some fumed silica on amazon for $20 just confused on how I apply it to the blanket do i mix with water and apply or do i mix it with resin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 9, 2018 Share Posted November 9, 2018 No resin, just mix it with water thin enough it'll spray from an elcheapo spray bottle, rinsed old Windex bottle, etc. Just be careful of used spritzer bottles some stuff doesn't go well in a forge liner as in toxic fumes. A little food coloring in the mix will show you how well you're covering the liner. Buy 1" 8lb. refractory blanket, especially if you're lining a cylinder it will roll and bend with fewer wrinkles. Wrinkles in a forge liner make for flame shadows and hot spots that serve no good purpose but do burn the liner up faster. That's two layers of 1" 8 lg. ceramic blanket, rigidized as you install them. Wear a proper dust mask and shower after you're finished to prevent inhaling ceramic particles. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dantheman Posted November 9, 2018 Author Share Posted November 9, 2018 IFI is great you guys are awesome firstly. Second frosty i have a respirator and thanks for the shower advice didnt think if that i have 4 kids so ill propably just grab a $5 tyvek suit and toss after im done then shower for good measure but last question for the rigidizer do i need to apply heat to it in between layers or just once after the two have been applied Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted November 9, 2018 Share Posted November 9, 2018 Either way as you find most convenient. I prefer to heat cure each individual layer in order to assure the best possible shaping of the insuation layers, but I don't think most people bother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.