What do you use to coat your steel? How do you apply it? Where do you get it? How long does it last?
I use WD-40 for inside stuff and paint for outside stuff. I apply WD-40 at about 100 degrees. Paint goes on cold. WD-40 doesn't last in rain, but paint scratches off too easy. WD-40 lets you see the texture of the steel but paint lasts longer outdoors. :confused:
What do y'all do?

The kidsmith,
Dave Custer

i just use wd-40 for my coating because it keeps the look
most of my stuff stays inside unless its forge tools

Linseed oil and beeswax on inside stuff unless it's for food, then I use olive oil baked on in the oven. For outside stuff properly applied paint holds up well.
Finnr

I use grape seed oil and bee's wax it is food safe.

Do you mix the beeswax and oil? If so, how? The other problem with paint is it masks the elegent sheen of a properly finished piece. I like to see the color of the steel. It's lke a sword or bayonet. They look much better if they are well tarnished instead of bright steel. (especialy a bayonet, as with a shiny one you make a good target for on coming yankees)(I'm a Civil War reenactor) Anyway, keep posting.

The kidsmith,
Dave Custer

just melt the wax and add the oil

WD-40 is spray Stoddard solvent and evaporates completely, it won't protect the iron at all.

Historically wrought and cast iron left outdoors is painted. There's been a quest for an enduring clear finish for outdoor application for a long time.

A high quality clear or matte finish paint is about as good as it gets at this time. Krylon, Imron, etc. with Permalac the current favorite. None of them are good for more than a few years though.

If you find something let us know.

Frosty

I sometimes use bucthers wax, aplied to cold metal indoors. For outside work, hot dipped in zinc, epoxy primer, automotive topcoat, or self ecthing primer, epoxy primer, automotive topcoat. With the butchers wax, and also stoveblack, I tell the customers that if it ever starts to rust, then THEY need to reaply.

I use equal parts of bees wax, linseed oil, turpentine and Japan black(Dryer) for inside work. This can be applied to black heat ironwork. The mixture sets hard when cold, but can easily be melted before use, and it smells nice to boot.
On outside work where you want the natural forged look I use a product called 'Penetrol'. It is a mixture of oils with a hardener added. It must be painted on cold and can be applied to milled steel, forged steel and even rusty steel work, and will maintain the look of the original finish. I guess you could say it is a cross between wd40 and polyurethane.