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Changes on first knife before handle?


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First knife ready for a hand. Felt pretty good about the grind for first full knife. Got mad when i ticked the heel with the side of belt but with small bolster it will remain behind edge. Any advise before handle goes on, or for future? I plan on making a few off this pattern and same metal which is L6. Handle will be a cherry wood with 1/4" brass pins. Heat treat also seems ok. Used canola oil heated to about 130* and 2 1 hour temper cycles at 400*. Took one that I messed up the grind on and chopped wood with it using another piece to hit the spine and drive it in and no chips or cracks so I'm on the ballpark




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5 minutes ago, Daswulf said:

Whats the thickness at the spine? 

Personally I like a more full grind with a secondary for sharpness but thats me. 

This is about 1/16. Should have gave dimensions sorry. Blade is about 3.5" and  handle is Just shy of 4". Idea was a little trout knife. Wasn't sure if I wanted like a skandi grind with secondary edge bevel, or flat grind. 

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This is all just my personal opinion but I would do a couple things a little differently.

As Das mentioned, I prefer a full grind also.

If it is a camp or potentially hard use knife and no guard on it, I prefer to bring the ricasso all the way down then put a sharpening choil in to give you some protection for your fingers yet still have a definitive end to your edge to keep it flat when re-sharpening.

I would also contour the finger side of the tang a bit to make it easier to hold onto and more comfortable under harder use.

With that narrow of a tang I think I would use a slightly smaller pin as well for strength. Not so much in the tang itself, but in the scales since you are using wood.

The point looks like it may drop just a little too much to be comfortable in a thrust cut. You want it a little more in line with the center of your spine.


Overall however, it looks pretty decent for your first knife. If your intent for it is a fishing knife, I would definitely go full flat grind. It will reduce your bevel angle allowing it to cut effortlessly with very little drag behind it.

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9 hours ago, sfeile said:

quote removed

Thanks for the feedback! If bring up the tip it would create more belly. Is that regarded as ok for this style knife still? Or I could reduce height which would keep edge line similar 

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From what I'm looking at in the photo if you try and do too much correction from the top you are either going to make the tang too narrow, or leave an awkward angle in it. If you do too much re-profiling to the edge side to correct it, you will lose a lot of the length in an already short blade. (Not that that is a bad size, but too small to make a major correction without losing a lot of it.)

The only real option I see (and in all fairness, I am not a master bladesmith by any means) would be to put the tang back in the fire and take it over your anvil horn. Give it a little bit of a downward sweep helping to align it that way. That would also help to put a bit of finger swell in it. A few hits with the horn in front of each pin hole would give you a profile similar to this one. (You wouldn't have the finger groove, but the sweep would be similar.)

If you misshape the holes, you can always re-drill them or go right beside and put a new one. The way you have them drilled you should have plenty of room. 


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