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I Forge Iron


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About cjweaver13

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    Johnstown, NY

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  1. I ended up picking it up for $100. Good condition based on what you all have said. All of the hashmarks on the trips are there, threading is perfect, and it's complete ready to use. I'll try and get a couple of close ups later.
  2. Looking for some relatively quick opinions. Came across a Columbian 4.5" leg Vise on Craigslist. Guy doesn't think it's hardly been used and is asking $120. Trying to gauge if that's fair as I don't see anything to compare it too that size. eBay put it in the ballpark if not maybe a little better Everybody by me is trying to sell 6"-8" for upwards of a $1000. Thanks!
  3. Thanks for the feedback! If bring up the tip it would create more belly. Is that regarded as ok for this style knife still? Or I could reduce height which would keep edge line similar
  4. This is about 1/16. Should have gave dimensions sorry. Blade is about 3.5" and handle is Just shy of 4". Idea was a little trout knife. Wasn't sure if I wanted like a skandi grind with secondary edge bevel, or flat grind.
  5. First knife ready for a hand. Felt pretty good about the grind for first full knife. Got mad when i ticked the heel with the side of belt but with small bolster it will remain behind edge. Any advise before handle goes on, or for future? I plan on making a few off this pattern and same metal which is L6. Handle will be a cherry wood with 1/4" brass pins. Heat treat also seems ok. Used canola oil heated to about 130* and 2 1 hour temper cycles at 400*. Took one that I messed up the grind on and chopped wood with it using another piece to hit the spine and drive it in and no chips or cracks so I
  6. Ok so I made a knife blank out if 1/4" OCS (old Chevy spring). The thickness currently is a bear. As a newbie, what is the easiest, most aggressive way to thin it out for further profiling for bevels. Options I currently have at my disposal are: forge anvil and 3lb hammer, 1x30 belt grinder with various grits, 4" angle grinder, bastard files, and bench grinder. My goal is to go the fastest route. If that means belt grinder I'm prepared to go through belts at an alarming rate for that size grinder, but before I needlessly kill belts, or ruin straightness hammering hot metal, I wanted an e
  7. Thanks all for the help. Ended up being a bad regulator. Runs beautiful now. Still put a choke on and adjusted nozzle height and we're in the ballpark. Hammered on some steel tonight for the first time felt good
  8. Thanks Frosty. So far one says deeper in the tube, and you say farther away. Would this answer change based on mig tip size, or is it strictly getting placement of gas correct to affect incoming air on side port to increase?
  9. This is definitely the case. There is a graingers about 1.5 hours away I guess I'll have to visit. Frosty, you'll laugh but there are no such thing by me, only hardware stores. I'min upstate NY and closest "metropolitan" area is Albany about 1.5 hours away. I'll have to eat up a Saturday and take a road trip. In that video I don't know if he was show boating and jacking up psi for a bigger flame, but I also noticed he had a choke on the hole and covering up about 1/4 of it. I attached a picture of mine, and now the only problem is it starts off great, then after 5 minutes starts
  10. Hey all, new user here! I am beginning my forging journey and currently making a sidearm burner using the Zoeller design. First change I have to make is simply using a 1/8" brass nipple with black iron plug to create nozzle with tapped .035 Hobart tip. The big question is the reducing tee. No hardware store near me has the correct orientation of the 3/4 reducer hole (they are all on the perpendicular side instead of straight side). I can grab an all around 1-1/4" tee and a reducing bushing for the end. Will I only be able to tell the difference if I were running 2 side by side with the "correc
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