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I Forge Iron

franken forge build , thus far


KENR2600

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So, forgive the color schemes..as all the parts (except propane valves). none of it is planned, and all stuff on hand. In fact, the shell is Honda - Tahitian green, mixed in a color match from 2004, a few years on the shelf - but paints just fine. The burner bracket - Dodge "prowler yellow" - also an old mix. some craft paints while building the burners just for fun....

  So far, it has been an interesting build, but put on hold. I haven't come across a dime to invest in insulating, and found no one around with freebies - or mostly no clue what I'm talking about.... Plenty of tinkering to do yet anyhow, so - we will be patient and see what the universe brings...

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There are future plans for a real backer - with door, or cap dome, or some such. But in the meantime, I built space enough on the back of the cart to build the brick wall in a frame to serve the need... I'll keep it minimal at cost for now, while waiting to see what great ideas or adaptations I would like to add along the way... I even have a vague notion of using the other 1/2 of the tank this was made from, building another similar - and if needed for a long project - could potentially back to back them, making a nearly 4 foot forge...

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Very good planning there :D

There have been proposals to line up two or more forges for long projects before; the main objection to this idea is the distance needed between the forges for exhaust gases to exit might force the forges far enough apart to cause a cold spot to form in the work. Now that we have forges that can be heated by ribbon burners, I would recommend that kind for a second forge, to reduce, or  even eliminate any such problem. 

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Someone should give you far warning that, if you intend to build a typical funnel forge (with its burners facing down at an angle), then they don't match up very well with the forge opening. However if you rotate the forge so that its burners are horizontal and facing slightly upward, then they would impinge on the forge wall, away from the work, keeping scaling to a minimum. You would also need to use at least a half inch thick layer of Kast-O-lite 30 refractory for a hot-face, so that the wall can withstand flame impingement.

The other choice would be to cut your square opening into an even larger circle, so that you can rotate your forge into the right direction for flame impingement on the forge floor, and use  Kast-O-lite 30 refractory for an end wall to reduce the opeing back down to a more useful size. 

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Well, I found an item for use as an end cap to this forge. What better use for an old dish? And I have 2 - so I will be able to cut out a slider type door in the one, with the proper concave and angles to match. It will take some more tinkering about, but - that's what I can do for now. I added the porch - and did some plumbing - all leak tested and tweaked up. Still no dough for refractories - so playing with the rest of the project - caps, doors, the cart - plenty to fidget with yet!

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It is going to get much smaller on the inside along the way. I expect when done, it will be whisper quiet, cool as a cucumber, practically feed itself infinitely on a whiff of fuel, and even start shaping metal before it even comes out. ;) 

 

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  • 1 year later...

After just over a year's layover - from health, wealth, and time issues - I finally got my insulations, liners, and the like. Finally, the forge gets to spit some fire. A bit of trouble with the primary burner spitting at low pressure - idle basically. Once it turns up 4-5 psi, it seems fine. A whiff of a breeze over the intake cup solves it. Everything else looks nice. Can't help but wonder if I have a small leak at the junction of the mig nozzle....

The photos show 8-10 psi - the shorter video is my "dragon's breath" with the pressure maxed up at about 25 psi, and the back hole blocked completely. The unit had been running about 5 minutes on the front burner 2-3 on the back.  

The finished space is about 5-1/2" wide by 14" deep. 

 

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I'd rather the flames hit the wall up higher, but my "hard coat" got too close on the entry ports, and restricts my ability to turn them up further.... still. not bad for a first shot - in my "newbie" opinion....

 

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SO, I made some tongs.... things seem to be working fine. So, for lack of an actual job to do - and to learn my equipment and materials, I decided my big deal for the day will be to see how hot I get stuff, and straighten a piece of coil spring. From fire up to flame out, about 20 minutes. Everything seems to be up to snuff.

  I chucked the piece in, and lit it up. The last 3  photos - working temp at 20 minutes. Then, the afterglow after shutting it down and closing all the valves - and the no longer coiled spring. I think working out tooling, and just learning how the metal works and moves will be my initial "fun".

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I hadn't cranked it up to it's max yet. As it got to temp to get my metal orange, I backed it down to 6-7 on the pressure. It runs good on both burners up to 20-23. On the primary alone 25+ …. I yet to know how hot this thing can get- especially if I choke down that hole....

 

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