Dielonx5 Posted March 22, 2018 Share Posted March 22, 2018 I just acquired this columbian company post vise the other day and the seller mentioned the area of concern in the photographs. To me, it looks like the edges of a weld that were just not quite fully integrated and will pose no structural concern for the piece. But, I am super new to the purchasing of blacksmithing equipment and the craft, so I wanted to reach out and see what more experienced people feel about it. Not sure if the jaws for these kinds of pieces were forge welded on or not. I believe this piece is forged steel and weighs about 45#. It seems to be in brand new condition. The jaws still have the original cross-hatching intact as well as what seems to be the original patina. The rest of the piece is in perfect shape with all original parts. So the only way I feel this damage could have happened is through natural stresses from being unused for so long in a storage unit or that it is just a cosmetic issue more than anything. The seller suggested that one could take the piece apart to sand blast it, but I really don't think I want to..I like the look of it. I have read that wire brushing and oiling is another way to give some "life" back and would be more inclined to take this route. I have a butchers block wire brush and the squeaky screw could use some oil for sure haha. Thank you for taking the time to help a young aspiring smith out! Dylan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Coke Posted March 22, 2018 Share Posted March 22, 2018 Greetings X5, Wire wheel it than some good oil . I use furniture tung oil which works well for me and last for years. Forget the crack it will be just fine it’s in a low stress area and should not get bigger and cause problems. Have fun and enjoy. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAG Posted March 22, 2018 Share Posted March 22, 2018 X5, Epoxy resin is also used as a crack filler. (it's a glue more often). As Mr. Coke has written, (supra), if the crack is in a low stress area, the resin will work fine. Use the 24 hour variant of epoxy resin. I suggest that you compound twice as much resin as the hardener. (2 to 1 ratio). Allow at lest 24 hours to polymerize, before use. I usually allow 48 hours. A hair drier at a low setting will result in an even stronger bond. Oh yes, I forgot, clean the metal to remove all particulate matter, and especially grease. It works a charm, here, at SLAG industries, P.L.C. Regards, SLAG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dielonx5 Posted March 22, 2018 Author Share Posted March 22, 2018 Thank you Mr. Coke and SLAG for your guidance. But you both definitely would say it is a crack? It doesn't go deep at all if it is. The seller told me it would be no worries as you both have mentioned. Wire wheeling sounds like a power operated tool? If i do not have one of these would the hand held brush work, or would it possibly scratch the surface? Im totally cool leaving it as is as well. Maybe just rubbing it down with some oil (I have non boiled linseed oil, will that suffice?). Good to know not to worry! (: Seems like the device is set up to fail at the bottom by snapping an easily replaceable bolt or something to that nature. Pretty psyched with this purchase overall! Again, thank you both for the input and easing my worries! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted March 22, 2018 Share Posted March 22, 2018 Looks more like an incomplete forge weld to me, not a stress crack. As others have said don't worry about it but keep an eye on it when clamping something. If the area moves at all welding it would fix it. Plain linseed oil will work but takes longer to dry. BTW: Welcome to IFI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dielonx5 Posted March 23, 2018 Author Share Posted March 23, 2018 IronDragon, thank you! Been scanning IFI for a while. Good to be on an active forum with knowledgeable craftsfolk! I have cinched the jaws completely closed and tried to crank on it, and no movement at all. Seems super solid. Just some cosmetic inconsistencies that do not seem to persist deeper in the weld. You can faintly make out the shape of the piece around the sides and back where the welds are completely synonymous with the arm below. I greatly appreciate your feedback, and in either case, it seems that it is of non issue (: Awesome to hear linseed will work! Any input on wire brushing and if that would do more damage than good? A friend of mine may have a powered wire brush though...I will have to check on that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted March 23, 2018 Share Posted March 23, 2018 A wire brush on a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder won't hurt it a bit and usually leaves a nice patina. I have cleaned anvils and leg vise's with one. Some heavy oil like gear lube or chainsaw bar oil on the screw & screw box should keep it working smoothly without collecting scale like heavy grease will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dielonx5 Posted March 23, 2018 Author Share Posted March 23, 2018 Awesome! I think a friend of mine has that! I was asking if you think a hand butcher block wire brush would damage it. Seems like it might. Ah okay so just oil up the working gears rather than, or at least is not needed, on the rest of the vise? Thank you so much for your comments, I really am super new and don't know a whole lot. So, forgive me for all of my questions XD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAG Posted March 23, 2018 Share Posted March 23, 2018 Wire brushing is the way to go. One caveat, do not use knotted wire brushes they are too aggressive. The hand block wire brush will not damage the vise. You acquired a really good and useful tool. Used with care it will last well beyond your lifetime. SLAG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 23, 2018 Share Posted March 23, 2018 As I live in a dry climate my postvises tend to get NOTHING applied to the big parts and swamp cooler oil to the screw/screwbox and pivot point. When I get a new one I spend my time cleaning up the screw and screwbox, removing rust from the pivot points, replacing the pivot bolt if needed and removal of any loose rust on the rest. You can use Boiled Linseed Oil on the "outsides" or wax them; but in a dry climate I just use them. Some have come to me painted at some previous time---they still look that way in my shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dielonx5 Posted March 24, 2018 Author Share Posted March 24, 2018 Yeah it is defintely not a knotted brush. After watching Joey Van Der Steeg's review on wire brushes, I ordered a butchers block wire brush. I am looking to have a friend help me clean this vise up along with an anvil I just bought and he has a wire brush attachment for an angle grinder I think. Thank you for your input SLAG, I am really happy with this tool. It is in excellent shape and I like the character on the inside of the jaw! So amazing that these tools are in such quality shape so many years later. The history... P.S. when do you think this vise was made? No indication of a date being stamped on it. I read that columbian's with chamfered edges was a newer design as earlier forgings would have had sharp edges - if I am correct. But how long ago was "newer" haha 22 hours ago, SLAG said: Wire brushing is the way to go. One caveat, do not use knotted wire brushes they are too aggressive. The hand block wire brush will not damage the vise. You acquired a really good and useful tool. Used with care it will last well beyond your lifetime. SLAG. I live coastal so it stays humid all year, of course the levels change throughout the year. Also, the salty air tends to do some work on metal here. Luckily we live a bit inland so it doesn't seem to do much damage. I don't have BLO, I usually just use plain. I realize this takes longer to dry, but I like having less chemicals around I suppose. Or something like that,, 11 hours ago, ThomasPowers said: As I live in a dry climate my postvises tend to get NOTHING applied to the big parts and swamp cooler oil to the screw/screwbox and pivot point. When I get a new one I spend my time cleaning up the screw and screwbox, removing rust from the pivot points, replacing the pivot bolt if needed and removal of any loose rust on the rest. You can use Boiled Linseed Oil on the "outsides" or wax them; but in a dry climate I just use them. Some have come to me painted at some previous time---they still look that way in my shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAG Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 Dielonx5, Regular un-boiled linseed oil will be just fine. You can accelerate drying without boiling. Just add a drying accelerating chemical, to the oil. Those chemicals can be purchased at most art supply stores. They are called "siccatives". But just ask for a linseed oil accelerator. They are not that expensive, & a little goes a long way. The product's instructions will describe the method and amount of the chemical to use. BUT note that such an oil-accelerator/linseed oil solution should NOT be used on tools that come into contact with food. (or on eating utensils, e.g. knives etc.). But, come to think of it, leg vises are almost never used at the dinner table. (at lest not at our house). (or tongs even). Hope that helps. SLAG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 I think that is backwards; older Columbians were beveled and newer were straight legged. At least the one I had that Frank Turley thought was WWII vintage was straight legged. And adding drying agents is how they generally make "boiled linseed oil" nowadays Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dielonx5 Posted March 25, 2018 Author Share Posted March 25, 2018 Wow that is cool news! pre-WWII, that is fantastic! Haha yeah I dont think mounting the vise for kitchen use is part of the decor the wife would want lol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 Wait till she finds how useful it is---you man never get it to the shop! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dielonx5 Posted March 27, 2018 Author Share Posted March 27, 2018 Hahaha wouldn't that be amazing. I'll just have to bring my work into the kitchen then and yell "hot" every minute or so to not burn anyone. I suspect I would lots of working heat though. Sigh...just need to nab another! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.