NO; silicon carbide is the holy grail for kiln shelves in kilns--not in forges. In forges, you want to use Kast-O-lite 30 castable refractory or high alumina kiln shelves.

No silicon carbide shelf I misread that  paragraph.i am going to shut up for a while about forge builds I just keep proving my ignorance, I'll be back in a  week after thoroughly rereading some of the important threads.

While I'm gone here's a burner

So I have been moving so I took the time to read threads and assemble supplies. Finally tonight I got out to the garage and set up my first two frosty t burners and rigidized the blanket on my test forge number 1.

Picture 1 is my good burner at 10 psi

Picture 2 is my good burner at 5 psi

Picture 3 is the forge with my not so good burner idk psi

Pic 4 is not so good burner at 5 psi

Pic 5 is same burner 10 psi

The first burner I show works better than the other but both seem ok. Maybe the second burning rich?  The liner also looks like it was sagging but I fixed it while baking it.

Will grab my scientific scale and measure zircopax and Veegum sometime soon this week and tonight I'm drawing plans for a correctly designed and sized forge considered just a single burner but since I started this one up I have been blown away.

How hot should the mixing tube be getting on this burner? Mine got quite warm after 15 or so minutes.

Mellin

Here's the better burner burning 5 then 10 psi

So far so good

A wobbly mig tip is also an indication of hand drilling and tapping, it's hard to keep the drill from wobbling when drilling so the tap can not cut smooth even threads. Unfortunately if you don't have a drill press or want to modify a hole saw to act as a guide you use what you have.

Goop will help. Propane rated thread goop. YES?

Your flame looks pretty good in the forge, how does it perform?

Frosty The Lucky.

You are correct I did hand drill and tap I bought multiple fittings in case I messed up. The burner performs quite well and quite literally blows the little torch I had before out of the water.

On 3/19/2018 at 2:48 PM, Frosty said:

A couple things about finding what you need. Go to a REAL plumbing supply

Is the one on the left the thread protector you speak of? I found a real plumbing supply and they gave me these.

I did not adjust the mig tip but changing to the new "flare" made it so the torch could not support flame outside the forge. Inside the forge the flame seemed to move away from the flare but the flames coming out of my forge are shorter it feels like.

1 hour ago, Mellin said:

Is the one on the left the thread protector you speak of? I found a real plumbing supply and they gave me these.

 

Yes it is and that's the very price I pay for the things. Once word got out they insisted I take the whole bucket 30-35. I'm set for life on 3/4" thread protectors.

Frosty The Lucky.

Haha I happened to run into a family member in the plumbing business and he said that if I need more he has hundreds.

I am going to take a spare mig tip and shorten it down more as the flame has done something a wee bit funny to me. I took the time to draw this masterpiece and I am assuming that the mix is still too rich at the mouth of the burner to support combustion so it moves away from the burner? The figure labeled old (reference pics from March 29) is where the flame sat before, definitely within the flare. The new coupler pushed the flame way off I can only assume that is bad? Inefficient? My logic is The volume of air intake doesn’t change in my 2 situations so if a change in flare causes the flame to walk away from the burner it is rich so shortening the mig tip will induce more air therefore bringing the mixture closer to neutral? 

The new coupler that I have been trying has not increased performance as far as I could tell I tried trimming down my mig tip but that did not bring the flame within the end of the flare, this also made the flame on the old reducer flare end seem very flamey or not as jet like. Frosty do you have any guidance.

i heated up a slug of some sort of metal, pretty hot but forge atmosphere seemed to scale the piece while in the forge more, unknown alloy.

 So it's been snowy can't get to the shop snowy but finally it's nice and the snow melted. I took a picture when I first started up the forge. I can't tell if this is normal. I ran the forge for a while and it works great I can't tell if it is better or worse than the other flare. Does a frosty t burner need secondary air? I feel like the pieces scale more with the frosty style flare I'm no expert. This is my first item I am making well a pair of tongs. They don't match. I still need to draw one out about half an inch  and the area around the pivot point are sloppy.