Lorenzo 1SG Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 Hi, guys! Brand new at smithing, I’ve been lurking here for a while and learning all I can. I built my own 2 burner propane forge, really only use 1 burner. I placed the end of the burners flush with the inner edge of the refractory brick. I notice all kinds of slag dropping down into the forge. I’ve never seen anyone post about this so I started worrying a bit. Part of me says it’s normal because things do get xxxxxx hot. Thoughts? Thanks for any info, love this site!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasent Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 Back your burners out. They need to be just inside the shell about 1/4" or so. Got any pics with it running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lorenzo 1SG Posted November 25, 2017 Author Share Posted November 25, 2017 This is from its first firing, not really cranked up. Second question: if you look at the pic with the slag, you’ll see a crack in the top and bottom bricks. Safe to say this is from the frame not allowing for expansion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 Looks like scale from metal you have been heating. If so the flame is lean (too much oxygen) maybe secondary air through the mounting tubes. I'm sure Mike & Frosty will be along and really give you the best answers. BTW: Lorenzo welcome to the addiction. If you will go to your profile and edit it to show your location you may be surprised how many of the gang are near you and a lot of answers are location dependent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 okay; no matter how well you build your burners, and what I can see of them looks good, you still need to limit air induction through the space between the burners and their burner ports from being induced by the flame. In fact, the better the burner the greater the air entrainment will be, while the acceptable amount of secondary air intake will shrink. To check out how much secondary air your forge can use, stuff different amounts of leftover ceramic wool around the burners, temporarily. A simple permanent solution can be had with flat washers held in place with nuts that are silver brazed on the washers and thumbscrews to keep the washers at the right hight. Why adjustable, because how much secondary air is entrained/induced will depend on flame force. And sine secondary air will be needed for most burners. Congratulations on using a steel frame, rather than encasing the forge in a shell. But don't consider the forge as finished, without at least using hard firebrick to make a movable exhaust baffle wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 The overall dimensions are good, and the burners are well positioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frozenforge Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 The soft bricks crack very easily just from the thermal cycling. Hopefully you made it easy to replace the bricks! A thermally reflective coating applied to the inside will help. The only one that immediatly comes to mind is ITC-100. I know there are cheaper options but I cant think of their name Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 Zirconium silicate with 5% bentonite clay makes a way better choice for a whole lot less money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasent Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 1 hour ago, Mikey98118 said: Zirconium silicate with 5% bentonite clay makes a way better choice for a whole lot less money. I thought 3% was the consensus on that mix? Or was that for casting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 Good Morning, Lorenzo Weld in a shelf to support another row of regular Fire-Brick, at the front and back. You need to keep the flame inside the fire box, by making adjustable doors, front and rear. By doing this you will find you can get a lot hotter. Yes, the soft brick will crack and eventually fall apart. It is the nature of the beast. Don't be discouraged, everyone has a first Forge. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lorenzo 1SG Posted November 26, 2017 Author Share Posted November 26, 2017 Thanks for all the info! It actually does have a shelf on the back where I close it off. I’ll put one on the front, too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 On 11/25/2017 at 9:18 PM, Jasent said: I thought 3% was the consensus on that mix? Or was that for casting? 3.5% is what the author of the original article suggested for making refractory tiles, etc. He suggested 5% for making finish coating. what other guys making these products use is a different matter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasent Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 57 minutes ago, Mikey98118 said: 3.5% is what the author of the original article suggested for making refractory tiles, etc. He suggested 5% for making finish coating. what other guys making these products use is a different matter. After I asked I went back threw and read all the notes I have saved. I'm planning on using this mix in the ribbon burner forge I'm building. Thank you for the clarification. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.