Pipeliner32 Posted March 23, 2008 Share Posted March 23, 2008 I have a old mousehole anvil. Just wondering if anyone on the list has ever grinded of all the rust around the horn and sides of the anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ice Czar Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 well I wouldnt grind off the rust, you can card it off with a steel wool, much like slow rust blueing is done. I like the patina on my William Foster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 If you are silversmithing you may want to polish the horn and faces of the anvil, if you are blacksmithing a good wirebrushing usually is enough. Using the anvil will polish out the areas that get used and you can wax the areas that don't or if you will not be using it for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 If you seriously want to get rid of the rust there are a couple methods I'd use rather than brushing and certainly before grinding. Method 1, electrolysis, hook the anvil to the anode, positive side of a 12v sourse and a piece of sacrificial iron/steel to the cathode, negative pole. Submerge completely in a tub of water with a couple percent baking soda for electrolite. turn the power source on and check every so often till the rust is gone. Remove and oil, wax or otherwise seal with rust inhibitor. I really like LPS3 on warm iron, it leaves a very durable wax and has rust inhibitors in the formula. A bit expensive but very effective. IMHO Method 2 is sumerge the rusty item in a solution of between 15-30% phosphoric acid and let it soak till the rust is gone. The weaker the solution the slower the action but the less chance you'll damage the metal. It most certainly can damage iron / steel if you leave it too long. Remove, neutralize with baking soda and wax, oil, etc. Naval Jelly (pink stuff) is 30% phosphoric acid with surfacants (helps cut to the bare metal) and polymerizer(s) (thickening agent) If you try either of these methods on tools or equipment you want to disassemble them as they tend to weld iron/steel together, especially a phosphoric acid bath. Lastly be extremely cautious with any acid, and especially phosphoric. If you buy a high concentration it will react explosively on contact with calcium like you find in concrete or bone. Add acid to water, wear eye, skin, clothing protection, ventilate, etc. For sure read the MSDS and follow the precautions recommended. If I were recommending one of these I'd say use electrolysis, it's way safer and just as effective. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 note that is 12 volt DC for the electrolysis! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markb Posted March 25, 2008 Share Posted March 25, 2008 MolassesI had a tip a while back about rust removal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 25, 2008 Share Posted March 25, 2008 MolassesI had a tip a while back about rust removal I'd never heard of that one. Near the bottom of the entry is says it's making phosphoric acid. I'd say if you weren't in a hurry it's a lot sweeter solution than phosphoric acid and water. Sorry, I couldn't help myself. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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