October 10, 20178 yr Anyone happen to have any pictures or ideas for tooling to slit & drift 3/4 inch round bar under a fly press? I've got a couple of simple ideas.
October 10, 20178 yr one pass or two pass tooling? (How big is the fly press?) Make the slitting edge to cut just a little bit smaller than the needed circumference for the drift. Use H17 or S7 for the tool and make a good bottom piece to meet the tools travel requirements, A36 will work for that unless the run is very large.. (May want a two spot piece: one area for the slitting and then shift it to allow for the drifting.)
October 10, 20178 yr How does that compare to a Hopkins #2 screw press? Hmmm looked it up, cute little thing. What alloy(s) will you be slitting and drifting? Might look into the use of lube on the drifts too.
October 10, 20178 yr Author 3/4 inch 5160 round bar at first. Yeah, the no. 4 is a little smaller than I wanted but I got it at a price I could not resist. =) I still think this no. 4 will do a LOT of work for me though.
October 10, 20178 yr Greetings Derek, The drift is the same as a handheld except set up to go into your ram.... I use a fence that is split to support the stock when drifting because the stock bulges and is hard to index on the flip side. Round stock it is best to hammer a small flat at the pierce point to control shifting.. With the fence it’s easy to index the flip side just make a mark on the stock and the fence.. Once you get the hang of it it’s easy .. Have fun Forge on and make beautiful things Jim
October 10, 20178 yr A simple "V" block to hold the round centered on the slitting chisel will work fine, with a relief in the "V" block for clearance for the chisel I believe that Thomas should have said make the working end of the slitting chisel slightly less than 1/2 the length of the circumference of the final drift.
October 10, 20178 yr search on Hopkins #2 Screw press I got one in mint condition for US$100 including loading it in my pickup. I wish it had a couple more leads on the thread but for that price.... 5160 is probably going to take a couple of heats unless your working relatively small piercings (and with very good tooling) No but I meant the circumference of the cut should be a bit smaller than the circumference of the finished hole, I didn't mention length and didn't mean length. mea culpa
October 10, 20178 yr Thomas is right actually. But it's easy to get confused on how to make a slit the right length to correspond to a certain size drifted hole. Just trying to help clarify that. Sorry for the confusion
October 10, 20178 yr Author I certainly don't mind a couple heats as long as I have a method to accurately do it repeatedly. I've been slitting and drifting those by hand and I get about every 3rd one to my satisfaction. 6 hours ago, jeremy k said: A simple "V" block to hold the round centered on the slitting chisel will work fine, with a relief in the "V" block for clearance for the chisel I believe that Thomas should have said make the working end of the slitting chisel slightly less than 1/2 the length of the circumference of the final drift. Hey, I like the v-block with a bottom hole idea, that's pretty simple!
October 10, 20178 yr V BLOCK FOR SQUARE STOCK ? Ya need to support the stock at the point of chisel impact ..
October 10, 20178 yr Author Just now, Jim Coke said: V BLOCK FOR SQUARE STOCK ? Ya need to support the stock at the point of chisel impact .. Nah, the v-block jig would be used for round only, that's something that could be put together so quick that it doesn't bother me that it would be a 'single use' jig. =)
October 11, 20178 yr It doesn't have to be a very big "V" just enough to hold the round from rolling away. Even 10-15 degrees on each side is plenty if the slitter is centered properly. One could also use a half round bottom tool with clearance for slitter and swelling during the slitting/drifting. Skin the cat with what means are easiest for you.
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