Derek Melton

I got the 220v unit. I believe there are the SAME exact machines listed on ebay, some below 600$, some much more above. I think this is just a difference in the MANY distributors choosing to price their units differently for whatever reason. I do not believe at this time that the price difference has anything to do with the components or capability. I removed the cover and was pleasantly surprised at the build quality inside. Very much like a big computer but all the soldering points, hoses, wiring, etc is tidy and well put together. I too am VERY curious as to the longevity of the machine.

Ok, so I bought one of the 'cheap' ebay Induction machines, 15kw. [commercial link removed] It was around $600 to my door. From all I can tell, it's the same as the US Solid machines. There's been a lot of confusion if you look on ebay at all the various 'models' of the 15kw machine, it's hard to know if one is 'better' than the other. I posted a picture of my machine in the facebook induction forging group and was contacted by an employee at LiHua in China who said "you have one of our machines, you will be happy." After more messages back and forth, they confirmed that they supply the mac

I agree, to me it looks a little too precise to be a fix or modification. I'm wondering if perhaps this was an earlier design that S&B used before going to the split nut system. In either case, I'm pretty happy with it! Thanks!

Right! When I posted this I'd just gotten the press and thick, old grease was hiding the dovetail slot on the other side. My press is just like the OP's press, two slots with 'C' shaped pieces that capture the ram. I've since completely dismantled the press, soaked all the parts in Evaporust and I'm waiting for some help to mount the frame on the new table I fabricated before painting and re-assembling it. It's been extremely difficult to find any information about presses with this particular mechanism. Besides the OP here, and my press I cannot find pics or any evidence anywhere else online

Turns out, my fly press has 2 dovetail slots as well, so much grease on the other side was hiding that one. I've asked several knowledgeable people and none of them are very familiar with this style of ram/lead screw connection. I wonder if this was original, or some kind of 'retro fit' to fix a broken split nut?

Glad to have found this thread. I just picked up a Sweeney & Blocksidge press recently that has the same keyway in the ram to hold the lead screw in place. It's supposed to be a number 6 but it's not marked anywhere other than having the S&B nameplate. The leadscrew is sized consistently with other presses in the 6-8 range though. This particular press only seems to have one key on the right side of the ram. Do you know if taking the lead screw has to be in a particular position to remove and or replace it once the key and the triangular holder are removed? I've been a bit hesitant to

I recently bought a 15kg ST and am very happy with it. the quality of the machining seems to be high. No issues two and a half months in.

We had to do all of the shipping and customs paperwork, tax, delivery paperwork, pickup, etc all on our own. The process isn't for everyone. =)

Direct from China. It's not from Anyang.

Great!!

Whether or not the hammer needs an external air compressor. As far as I’m aware there are no USA made self contained air hammers. Examples of self contained: Nazel, Massey, Anyang. Examples of utility hammer: Big Blu, mz75, etc. there are significant differences in how they perform as well. I could be completely wrong though. I just don’t know a US made self contained hammer maker, to answer the guy who was indicating that it might be unpatriotic to buy one made elsewhere. In his defense he did say "buy an American hammer" to which I would say he's referring to the utility hammers, wh

Who is selling American self-contained Air Hammers? Is there a US manufacturer? If so, I've missed it.

Hey Setlab, did you get your problems figured out with the oil swap? Did it help?

Hey Crappiew, did your hammer get in? If so, what are your thoughts, I recently obtained an ST hammer from Anyang, China. I'm happy so far.

I recently took delivery of a 15kg/33lb Ston Forging Tools ST hammer from Anyang, China. I am writing up a separate post regarding 'my experience with a "non-Anyang" chinese air hammer.' Not to spoil too much but I'll say this, the cost savings seems to have been worth it after the customer service experience and what seems to be a good quality hammer.

My take on a 'church key' bottle opener. All fullering done on my flypress.

A 1.25lb cross pein and a small 8oz ball pein. Ash and Canarywood for the handles. Thanks for lookin! Derek https://www.instagram.com/pocahontasforgeworks/

Nah, the v-block jig would be used for round only, that's something that could be put together so quick that it doesn't bother me that it would be a 'single use' jig. =)

I certainly don't mind a couple heats as long as I have a method to accurately do it repeatedly. I've been slitting and drifting those by hand and I get about every 3rd one to my satisfaction. Hey, I like the v-block with a bottom hole idea, that's pretty simple!

3/4 inch 5160 round bar at first. Yeah, the no. 4 is a little smaller than I wanted but I got it at a price I could not resist. =) I still think this no. 4 will do a LOT of work for me though.

Two pass most likely, it’s a Denbigh No. 4 Fly press.

Anyone happen to have any pictures or ideas for tooling to slit & drift 3/4 inch round bar under a fly press? I've got a couple of simple ideas.

Well, I wound up laying them all out on a wooden board and spraying them with a thin coat of a good quality automotive clear coat lacquer. it's not the nice blackened finish I'd normally apply but I did not have the time to individually heat them and treat them with a hand-rubbed finish. Thanks for all the suggestions!

They just have a keyring attached to the bottom, then it goes on your keychain and you can hang them from the edge of your pocket, purse, etc.

I like it! Thanks