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I Forge Iron

Finally finished


Johnnyreb338

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Whew ( wiping sweat ) finally finished.     Been away from the board fer a spell, between fishing, bushoging ,full time job, putting up new fence and building a tractor/boat shed I'm tired. In my spare time I did complete an order. There made from 8670 steel from Alpha Knife Supply, the scales came from Exotic Wood Supplier, some of the pins are brass, nickel silver and carbon fiber. The sheaths were made by a friend who is just starting out leather working and I'm just an amateur knife maker so it works out, I trade knives for sheaths. There were 6 knives I made but only got pics of 5 of them . 

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Good afternoon Mr Thomas.  

Humm yes I will pass that along. I also would  like to have rivets at the top of each stich, it's just open stiching and subject to a lot of abuse. And I'm afraid the snap in the middle of the handles is going to create hotspots. But we are both learning and just having fun. How's life in El paso, did you take any hurricane damage. 

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My stitching is bad---why I know that trick; but most of my knife sheaths are just because I had it hammered into me that no knife leaves the shop without a sheath of some sort as they are sent out *SHARP*!

As for the Hurricane we didn't get a drop of water out here.  Houston is about 746 miles away by road, 674 straight line miles...

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Mr. J. RB.,

I suggest that you check out a leather working supply store or on-line catalogue for:

Rivets,

Rivet set tool, (a cheap set is all you need). Sewing supply stores sell these too

A "Speedy Stitcher",

Nylon thread which comes in various weights and colors

Glovers' needles, or flat leather work needles

And slit hole punches to make evenly spaced holes for stitching. round hole or slit holes. (I prefer the latter, myself). (they come in 1 to six tines. (they look like a fork).

You may also want to check out leather stains, waxes or other finishes, etc. etc.

These items are not particularly expensive. Sell a few knives with sheaths and you have paid for the gear.

Wood working supply stores often have exotic hard wood off cuts for a fraction the price of purpose bought knife scale wood.

Or you can buy a thin thick flitch of exotic wood. Cutting out adequate scale shapes is not a hard task. They often go on sale at specialty wood supply stores.

Three eighths thick wood and three inch width wood, usually will work for most smaller knives. The length, you can calculate for each particular knife that you craft.

Hope that helps.

I worked leather long before I started forging steel.

Still do both.

SLAG.

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Just now, ThomasPowers said:

My stitching is bad---why I know that trick; but most of my knife sheaths are just because I had it hammered into me that no knife leaves the shop without a sheath of some sort as they are sent out *SHARP*!

As for the Hurricane we didn't get a drop of water out here.  Houston is about 746 miles away by road, 674 straight line miles...

I would love to do my own sheaths but a full time job and other duties prevent me from having enough time to do everything. My wife has stated she might be interested in getting her feet wet in the leather arts but has not committed yet. Right now she has vacation on the brain and we don't have the extra cash to invest in the tooling to get started. So for now I'll heat and beat and outsource the leather. I have 4 butcher knives to make for my boss for Christmas I'm thinking of trying kydex for them being that meat cutting is a semi wet environment. 

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A patch of thin leather glued over the snap and rivit with barge cement cures the "hot spot" issue. Case the leather, use a creaser, stitching wheele and put the awl in the drill press. Stitching and awl work are done wile the leather is still damp. Trying to push an awl threw dry leather is a PITA, I prefer saddle needles and an awl to a stich awl. I acualy don't use the sewing machine as much as I could either, as I like the strength of saddle stich. 

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Charles,

Barge cement is wonderful stuff. I and most shoe repair people use it.

May I suggest that the leather be moistened/lubricated with an oil instead of water. Neatsfoot oil is excellent for that purpose. (it also rejuvenates dry leather items and garments).

Why am I not surprised that you are an experienced leather worker besides all your other skills?

Regards,

SLAG.

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I'm a poor boy, Slag. I can't afford harness and tac repair at the saddle shop! 

I use water, it allows you to compact the leather fibers as you do in carving, this gets the stiches down below the skin without using a groover. The hair side leather is stronger. I'm old school, but I was taught to oil damp but dry to the touch. The reason glycerin is in saddle sope is its affinity for water.     

 

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Thanks for all the tips and replies, I'm trying to take mental notes of all information. Anyways were supposed to be going to northern Kentucky to the Ark and creation museum, anything blade smith, leather shop or blacksmith related between mississippi and Kentucky that would be worth going to see. Well have about 6-7 days in that area and unlimited miles on the rental car. Although my back doesn't have unlimited miles, if it would be worth the drive i would suffer through. 

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