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I Forge Iron

Sword blank cutout

Sam Salvati

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Got this big beast cut out from 5160 yesterday, I cut the blank in a way so that I could use all the cutoffs for smaller knives, kiridashis and stuff, I hate wasting stock. From this point I will forge in the bevels and taper and all that, instead of grinding them in. I don't do this too often as I like to forge down from the parent size flat bar, but I was splitting the barstock anyway for knife size peices and figured i'd cut one of these out, as well as a few Freiderick's crosses from the RR spikes. I'll update this thread when I get forging the blade all over and done with, gotta get that drum forge ready so I can actually heat treat and finish some of these monsters.





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Bandsaw, I don't like heat/flame cutters they leave a nasty cut and waste too much material. Here is some stats:

42 5/8" overall
4" ricasso
31 1/4" blade
8 inch exactly tang
at the ricasso the blade is 1 3/4 inches wide, rapering down to 11/16" wide before turning into the tip

Remember to keep in mind that all these stats will change, except for the tang length and ricasso length, I still have a good bit of forging to go on the blade, but have already drawn out the tang.

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  • 1 month later...
I wish I had a friend with a laser/waterjet machine!

If you were closer...

I don't own a laser, but have free access to the one at work, after-hours. :D

That's a nice looking blank. It took some dedication to saw that out with a bandsaw!

How thick is that, 3/16"? I'd be willing to bet I could make a comparable cut with my plasma. With a kerf no wider than that of the bandsaw. That's using a straightedge for a guide though, freehand would look like I gnawed it out.:p
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It's 1/4" thick, it only took about 20 minutes to lay out the design on the barstock, then get it cut out with the saw, it's a VERY nice old saw. I can do pretty clean cuts with the plasma with the straight edge(of course :D ) too, but I just don't like heat-cutting things for blade stuff, I don't know why. Waterjet would just be AMASING to have access to. What kind of laser do you work with Joe?

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It's an older Mitsubishi, cuts 1/2" steel pretty nicely. I don't operate it, (I'd be bored silly), but if I draw up a part in CAD the boss will get it cut for me. I've taken advantage of it a time or two... It's a strange feeling to me, drawing something up and being handed a part a few minutes later.

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I don't know about cost, we aren't that kind of shop. We are a custom sign shop WWW.victorysign.com . The laser is used for our fabrication purposes. We have done a couple of cutting jobs for people though.

Hey Mooseridge! Nice to see a local fellow here. 4 1/4" thick?? Our laser couldn't even scratch that. I've never seen thicker than 1/2" cut on it.

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Actually, its 4 pieces of .25" plate.... problem is, the group cutting out the sheets are not doing exacting cuts, so I will need to clamp and grind to true up the edges.

The plan is to drill holes to grid a jig/welding table (approx. 3'x6'x 1"thick). Problem is, I have no way to lift the finished product, so I'm building up the table with pieces I can lift. I pick up the sheets today.

Am currently looking at .5" holes centered every 1.5", so LOTS of holes. I am also getting an additional 3'x6' sheet (cut into 2'x3' pieces) to use as a cover for welding and layout.....

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I regularly cut up to 5/8 inch steel. Somtimes 3/4, 7/8 and even 1 inch thick. Stainless and aluminum are my other common materials. I've cut 3/8 inch stainless and 1/2 inch thick aluminum. Really nice cuts.

I program and operate everything for my machine. It's a Trumpf 5000w co2 industrial cutting laser. I'm very rarely bored. I've cut everything from garden art to knife blanks to semi truck bumpers to cabinet parts to machine gun parts and all sorts of other fun stuff. Most of the time it's the minimum order that's the kicker for people.

It is a fantastic tool if used properly.


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