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Hello from Tulsa


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I discovered IFI about 2 weeks ago while looking for information on anvils. Yall have a huge wealth of information here. I havent made it past the anvil section yet but i am working on it. 

 I have been using an old railroad track for about 8 years. I havent really been serious about blacksmithing until recently. Now i am learning as much as i can as fast as i can. Thanks to all of you for all the information on IFI.

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Turn the RR track up on if possible so the mass of the track is directly under the hit of the hammer. You do know that you can turn the RR track on its side and use the inside and outside curves as a swage don't you. (grin)

As you read and learn, be sure and take the information to the forge and prove that it works. 

It is suggested that you pack a lunch and a cold drink when you visit the site. Welcome to IForgeIron.

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Welcome aboard Critter guy, glad to have you. There is nothing wrong with a RR rail anvil unless you're into cosmetics. As Glenn said stand it on end for a greater depth of rebound. The more steel directly under the blow the more effectively the anvil returns the impact energy and more effective it is as an anvil. 

Charles Stevens posted a great thread about rail anvils and what a little time with an angle grinder can do. Mounted on end he ground a number of what most folk think of as hardy of tools into the web and flanges. A: hardy, fuller of varying radius, bic, bending/scrolling forks, etc. Then he, tricky dog he is, flipped the same piece of rail over in the stand and ground more handy tools on that end. 

Also as Glenn said you can lay it on it's side for two size swages, flange up for a large flat surface and of course rail up for nice wide fuller.

Frosty The Lucky.

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To add to what Frosty, lay it on its side and use the inside curve under where the wheel rolls, where the web attached to the flat part, or the outside curve on the side of where the wheel rolls. Lots of possibilities.

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