whitebear Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 other than the ovbious fire pot...what can be used as a firepot? such as a brake drum or a 55 drum something other than a premade firepot or a self fabricated "firepot" son Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 A hibachi works as will a cast iron fry pan or shallow pot. A large cast iron plumbing cap though you're unlikely to find one large enough to make a satisfying fire pot. Maybe they make caps for cast iron sewer pipe that'd work. There are steel weld caps that'd work. That's about all I can think of off the top right now but anything that'll take the heat (depending on how long you need it for of course) should do it. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 My coal fire pot is the axle cover from a 1937 "Banjo" rear end. These were often made into jackstands over the years and I bought one such set at a fleamarket for US$3 once. I ground out the bearing and a couple of casting ridges and welded on a sidepipe for air and a bracket to hold a cover on the bottom to dump ashes. For a grate I use an old cast iron drain grate or a piece of expanded metal (replacing it every 20 or so hours of forging---but it's free as scrap so...) This firepot has been going strong for over 20 years now---and I have the other one as a backup in case I have to replace it! BTW it's round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MLMartin Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 use a harrow disk, depending on how thick the disk is use some clay in it, just cut the mounting hole in the middle a little bigger, or drill a few more little hole around it for more air to come in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teejay Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 The top cover off a mid size to large size diaphragm valve. The covers that I get are 1/8in stamped plate in bowl shape 2in deep with a 1in lip around it.total dia. of the cover is around 12in for the mid size and and 18 for the large Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don A Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 I've got some old cast iron bells that were top caps for circa 1950's steel light poles. They require a bit of modification, but they work well. You gotta figure a way to fit the 2" pipe into the bottom to rig your tuyre, and fabricate a grate of some sort. I used one for several years until I built my forge with the Centaur pot. The bells are free; I occasionally rescue one from our scrap dumpster. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Leppo Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 My firepot is an old cast iron floor drain, the kind that was embedded directly into concrete. The inside is hemispherical, about 12” diameter. It has a 2” hole in the bottom, with a collar attached. There is, however, a frame cast into the top where the grate would have been, making it square where it mounts into the forge table. It’s about 4” deep, but it’s only about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 Forgot to mention probably the oldest firepot there is---a hole in the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LITTLEJOHN Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 An old CO2 cylinder end works great if cut off.Just make sure the prior contents are not flamable.Always think safety if you are not sure dont use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt87 Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 Big box (wood, metal, masonry), with tuyere penetrating the side. Add ashes, sand or whathaveyou and you can have whatever shape of firepot you like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keykeeper Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 Old gas water heater tank. Cut off the end where the burner heated the tank. Has a nice subtle cone shape, and the vent tube is already welded in place for an air tube. Weld a piece of the vent tube at a 90 degree angle and you have a air tube. Use a couple pieces of 1/2 inch square or round welded in place in the hole for a grate, and your in business. Just be careful cutting into the tank, as there is an explosion hazard depending on the amount of rust, dirt, etc. inside the tank. Closed container cutting rules apply. I'll post some pics of what I have done with mine so far later. aaron c. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Dwyer Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 Keykepper, Is that tank galvanized? If so, do you have to be careful of zinc oxide fumes, not only during cutting and welding, but during forge fire usage as well? Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nett Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 Water heaters tanks are raw iron outside (under the insulation and outer skin) and glass lined (enamel) on the inside. Keykeeper suggests using the bottom of the heater, but I like the top because there are four nice 3/4 inch nipples to attach legs. I made this little forge from a water heater twenty years ago. It's kinda small but it gets the job done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave M Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 I have used the ends that I have cut off of old compressor air tanks that I have found inthe dump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keykeeper Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 The only coating I see is a blue color on the inside tank surfaces. Probably the enamel Nett spoke of. Very thin coating at that. I would think that if it is galvanized, I wouldn't use it to begin with, Phil. I stay away from anything galvanized. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Mulholland - Tetnum Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 the forge i have used for a long time is just a no10 can with nail holes in the top surounded by a clay filled stack of wood YouTube - tetnum's Channel so almoast any thing will work for a forge so play around with it be creative and decide what best fits your needs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.