Phil Dwyer Posted March 22, 2008 Share Posted March 22, 2008 Hillbilly, How did your rail anvil project go? Got any pix or further tips? -Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbillysmith Posted April 9, 2008 Author Share Posted April 9, 2008 I want to first apologize for not putting up any pics of the process. I wanted to and said that I would, but I wasn't allowed to use my phone to take the pics. So please accept my apologies for this. I CAN how ever say that it is finished now and looks pretty good if I do say so myself lol . Here is a pic of the finished product. There are a couple of things, however, that I should have and would have done differently now that I look back at how I did some things but it turned out well. Here's the pics: All criticism welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Martin Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 I like it a lot. I can't really criticize you since I've never attempted to make an anvil. Only that I might change would be to weld some plates underneath it to add some weight. (Where it is kinda thin). BTW, how much does it weigh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammerkid Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 Looks fine! I plan on making soon also . I like the horn on it and the step look great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbillysmith Posted April 10, 2008 Author Share Posted April 10, 2008 It weighs approximately 20-25 pounds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 Hard facing the top of a rail road track does not improve it, as track has a high manganese content. The harder and longer you hit it, the harder and tougher it becomes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speeddy Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 If you pre heat it and weld with a 9018 or a 11018 stick rod it will be harder than a 7018 by far.they cost a little more.But you get what you pay for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 Of course you can just harden and temper the rail, instructions in place like "The Complete Modern Blacksmith" by Weygers and not mess around with welding on it at all. It is after all a medium to high carbon steel with high Mn content... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FritzDaKat Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 Hey Farmer Phil, have you thought perhaps of building a firepit / primitive forge then switching between your torch and a good ole' fashioned chisel? I'd think if you were to start a few inches back from where you wanted the cut, chiseling in toward the core with a chisel like chopping a tree could save you alot of gas. Another idea, if you can get near the site with a vehicle (Close enough to run a small contractor sized compressor via. a power inverter) You could save quite a bit of bottled O2 by using a blowgun to move the melt out of your way. I had some pretty thick stuff to cut while working at the Airport and found it to be a pretty effective way of conserving resources (Boss was making wire out of pennies... lol. ) Just be sure to bring the leather apron, cap and a face sheild to wear over the goggles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 I've cut trolly rail "in situ" with a bowsaw with a piece of bandsaw blade in the frame. Note for hardened sections cut from the base toward the top of the rail and let the hardened sections break rather than trying to cut the hard stuff by hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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