Glenn Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 What is the proper angle for a hot cut hardie? Is there a proper length to the angle before it reaches the base plate? As this is being used only on HOT metal, can it be made from mild steel or is there a better material to use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmercier Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 Angle seems to be a matter of prefrence. Personally I like a hot cut hardy that has one side that's flat, straight up and down, with the other angled, which allows me to get straight end cuts on bars depending on which direction the hardy is in my hole. My current hot cut hardy is mild steel, but when I make a new one i'm going to use a tool steel for the added toughness and edge retention. If you dont have the best hammer controll a mild steel hot cut would be best so it doesnt marr the face of your hammer as much when you accidentally strike it, but since you should never have the hammer hit the hardy in the first place (or use a different hammer for hot cutting anyways) I wouldnt be worried about the face of my hammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 I would add that a slight radius across the width of the cutting surface is also good (that is to say, not straight across) - as is a very thin edge so it cuts easily. I see people all the time using what amounts to a cold chisel to cut hot steel. A thin edge slices through hot iron like "budda". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skunkriv Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 Don't know the angle but all of my hardies are sharp and I cut hot or cold on them. Have some 5160, 4140, H13, and one made out of an old handled RR cold cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Funk Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 H-13 is the best material for a hot cut. Hard to forge however. Almost as hard at low red as mild stell at room temperature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerryCarroll Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 The 2 hot cuts I use most are made from auto leaf spring. One chisel shaped on the cutting edge with a slight radius. The other is sharpened on one side to make straight cuts on the project side. On one I notched a piece of square stock that fits the hardy hole and welded to the bottom of the 2 1/2" long piece of spring--the other I cut at about 2" from the bottom on each side to a depth that fits the hardy hole--heated and folded each side over in opposite directions and forged to fit the hole. I also made a hammer from 1 1/2" square mild steel to use just for the cut offs and chisels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayco Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 I have one hardy with a single bevel(think plane iron or wood chisel). The angle on it is about 30 degrees. I have a couple more made from leaf spring which have double bevels......about 30 degrees on each side.......kind of like a blunt grind on an axe or cold chisel. I have one almost new Champion hardy with the same 30 degrees on a side double bevel. I don't know if 30 degrees is 'proper' angle for hardys, but that angle sure shows up a lot when you're sharpening all kinds of tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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