I just wanted to give a shout out to Frosty about his 3/4" T Burner.

A few months ago I desides to make the switch from coal to gas so I built my first gas forge and adopted the T burner as the heat source. I built two 3/4" burner following Frostys directions and yes it took me longer to ready the directions than it did to build the burners.

Well today I finally got around to giving the new forge a go. I gotta say this thing is a beast and these burners are simply awesome. I didn't even have to do any tinkering around to dial them in as they where spot on for my forge size, design and flame pattern. So thank you Mr Frosty for your efforts and sharing your designs. 

Frosty is a star for developing and sharing his knowledge these burners are a definite "winner"

Aw pshaw, you guys trying to make me blush? It makes me feel good that they're working for you Ray. Not everybody gets them to work right without a little tuning. Pics, where are the pics? We LOVE pics you know, bright glowing stuff is high on our list.

Frosty The Lucky.

Here you go Frosty, just the rear burner running for about 4 minutes.

My what a gaping maw you have there Ray!  Looks like pretty good heat for 4 minutes with an opening that large .(the gaping maw for those of you who didn't pick up on that)

Have you been making it work for you?

Frosty The Lucky.

Um, I had to take off the other brick so the maw was big enough to take the picture you asked for Frosty! 

Well, okay then. 

Frosty The Lucky.

How about some coconut trees for your Islets of Langerhans?

You don't think that a birch tree to the coconut was enough?

5 hours ago, Frosty said:

Well, okay then. 

Frosty The Lucky.

Lmao.....yep!

My my My this thread is getting good.  

I keep what I do on my islets a secrete. Well, at least out of sight.

Yeah, I took the birch on the coconut and shook me all up. They took the birch off my coconut and hauled me off that morning. Hey DOCTOR is there nothing you can do to ease this headache? He put the xrays in my coconut and patched me back up.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

Some folks will do anything to get into the Lime Light

Lol, their just post count bumping Thomas!

I am wanting to buid a Frosty burner and was wondering if 1 in pipe could be used in place of the 3/4?

Since no one answered you when you asked this question before I'll pass on my understanding and maybe Frosty will jump in as well.

The short answer is yes.  The long answer is if you do then you have to scale up the other components as well.  You'd need 8 to 9 inches of burner tube, a .045 mig tip, and a reducing T that has a 1 inch drop and 2 openings of 1.25 inch (I think).  However, this will also increase your fuel consumption and it may be too much burner for your forge.  You'll need more distance between the burner opening in your forge and the opposite wall for it to function correctly (compared to the 3/4 inch burner)  I believe this burner would be for forges in the 400 to 750 cubic inch range, whereas the 3/4 inch burner is better for the 200 to 350 cubic inch range.  Hope that helps and I'm sure if I got anything wrong Frosty can clarify it for you.

Buzzkill

     Yes that helps I was only asking on account I have 1 in all the way around . Just picked up some 3/4 pipe and a 1in to 3/4 reducer. So now I have to ask if the reducer will be a problem.  The local hardware didnt have a 1 to 3/4 T . The only thing im wondering is would i need to put the tip a little further into the T on account im adding a say 1/4 in to the T .

     Thanks for the reply I've been waiting for some help Buy the way if anyone has seen Frosty please ask him to check his email here a IFI for some forge build questions I have . I ask for him due tp the fact that I'm centering my buld around his burner. 

       Thanks for your help, Beatsy   

Hmm.  I was able to pick up the correct reducing T at a big box store where you "save big money."  I haven't personally tried one with a reducer as you describe, so I can't tell you for sure whether it will work (well) or not.  Even though these are common "off the shelf" parts, they are matched well to create the fuel/air flows and ratios needed for the burner to function correctly.  What seems like a small deviation from the plan could have a bigger effect on the air flow than you might think. Straying from the plans without a good understanding of how it will affect the performance is a good way to end up frustrated.  I seem to recall someone on here posting pictures on here of doing what you describe and having a working burner.  However, a flame at the end of the burner doesn't necessarily mean you have the desired performance.  I suppose the bottom line is I don't really know if that will make a big difference in performance or not.

This is precisely why I  am asking. I am hoping to use whar I have, but in the end if it is not perfect and need the correct parts. Well then so be it but it doesn't hurt to ask. My end goal is to have a great burner and if I  need to use the exact parts as listed then thats fine too. Just another trip to the store lol...

Thanks, Beatsy 

You can always try what you have now and pick up the specified T when you get a chance. When you get the "right" one it's just drilling and tapping a hole to replace what you have. Even if the performance isn't perfect, the dimensions of the burner will be the same and you'll already have the mig tip/propane fitting assembly done so this will let  you get started on your build now.

 Buzzkill 

     This is precisely my thoughts, Thanks for the incouragment 

Beatsy 

Sorry I didn't get to this thread until now and I see Buzzkill answerd your question the same way I would have. Everything would need to be upscaled. As for using a reducer I'm thinking that would change the flow but by how much I don't know. You can always experiment and see what you come up with. We may all learn a little something. Me, I just built two 3/4" inch burners as directed and have had no issues at all. Most of the time I only use the rear burner. Good luck with your build. This things are super easy to fabricate.

Thanks CT blades

   Well I just got back from lowes and found the right stuff so this build should go without a hitch. Fingers crossed. Yea the fab is pretty straight forward for that I thank Frosty. Simple simple simple makes for not a lot of margin for errors. 

So thanks Frosty 

 

You're welcome.

Sorry I missed so much of this thread but the gang covered for me. Thanks guys. Heck, I'm happy the things are getting around enough other folk are helping folk build the things. Simple is a goal of mine. 

Frosty The Lucky.

 

Frosty

Did you read your email I sent a while back, It pertains to the propane forge I am centering your T burner around?Can you take a look and if you need a diagram of the build I can make it happen just need to get it together.

Thanks in advance, Beatsy 

6 hours ago, Beatsy' s Forge said:

Frosty

Did you read your email I sent a while back, It pertains to the propane forge I am centering your T burner around?Can you take a look and if you need a diagram of the build I can make it happen just need to get it together.

Thanks in advance, Beatsy 

Uh . .  Yeah. . . . of course I remember now you remind me. I'll have to look and see what I replied,  remember or reconstruct what I was going to reply before I distracted myself seeing something . . . Ooh SHINY! 

No joke. <sigh> Be back in a bit.  Frosty The Lucky.

"A few minutes later" AIE YI YI! I re-read your PM and remember reading it earlier and just plain forgot to reply. Sorry about that but I do distract at the drop of a hat.

You have a good basic plan if you put the insulating fire brick on the outside and not in flame contact. I don't know how the carbon refractory would effect steel, I'd sure like to mess with some ad see though. How about plastering it with a high alumina castable refractory for the flame face? If it's Carbon Carbon like the black shuttle tiles I doubt anything we could do to it in a forge would hurt it. Well, so long as you don't go injecting oxy or something creative.

Your idea for easily replacing the floor is sound and should work just fine. If it leaks you can simply sprinkle a thin layer of dry refractory, eve fire clay for a gasket. Painting it with wet refractory would cement them together, all you want to do is block gaps. 

I'll give it some more thought but I really have to fire ideas quickly or I get side tracked and forget. It's my second most vexing TBI issue.

Frosty The Lucky.