Would the time and cost of hardfacing with the Scoody 2110/1105 at $8 a pound really be worth the outcome if the anvil turned out with a flat face but no rebound and little or no resale value once it's been welded on?

What about taking that same money and investing it in a larger drop (3-4" diameter/square or larger) of 4140 to make a post anvil with a flat face?  You could even weld a bit of square steel tubing to the side (cut flush with the top) for holding hardie tools, etc...  plus a couple running sideways to run rods through when you are heat treating it and, longer term, secure it to the stand.

Same money in, but in the end you have two usable anvils with the later option which could likely sell for more than you have in to them... or you could end up with one non usable anvil that's worth less than you paid for the anvil plus materials to hardface it.

 

On Sunday, September 25, 2016 at 3:59 PM, Frosty said:

Welcome aboard Marvin, glad to have you. That's a heck of a score for $50, I would've jumped on it and let Deb yell. I certainly wouldn't try refacing it. There has bee some serious delamination on the heal, two sizable pieces are missing. There's a high probability it's either delaminated or close in other places. Facing over a delaminated layer will cause the delamination to extend as a HAZ effect. Do you REALLY want to grind what face it has left off to be sure?

A lot of still usable anvils have been ruined permanently by experienced welders working in well equipped shops. There is just a LOT more to hard facing thick sections than laying down some rod. It's certainly doable but it's a LOT of work to do right, about as much as just making an anvil. Even a small repair takes a full day to preheat, weld, grind and post heat. Yeah, I hot grind with a cup stone to profile then finish with fine grit wheel and finally sandpaper after it's cooled. the NEXT day.

You ARE aware of the number of passes build up and hard facing rods are limited to yes? A guy can fudge it some but not a lot, especially with the hard face.

Yeah, I've burned maybe a couple thousand lbs of hard face rod and wire. There's A right way to do it and then all the ways some guys have been doing it for years.

Frosty The Lucky.

Glad to be on board 

You all make good sense and I'ma take yalls advice and just use it it's got awesome rebound I'd really hate to loose it and for the time and money it would take to straighten it out I could just buy or build one  

16 hours ago, MarvinB said:

Glad to be on board 

You all make good sense and I'ma take yalls advice and just use it it's got awesome rebound I'd really hate to loose it and for the time and money it would take to straighten it out I could just buy or build one  

Wise choice. That's a fantastic anvil at five times the price; use it in good health!

For comparison, my anvil (which is similar to yours, with slightly less sway) cost me twice what you paid -- thirty years ago!

On 09/25/2016 at 5:14 AM, George Geist said:

Do you have a Rockwell Hardness Tester?

It can fluctuate a little but since a hammer is around 50 you don't want an anvil to be harder than that so you shoot for between 45 and 48 R Also, hardening can be a pretty big challenge. Hot anvils under waterfalls was how things were done in the past but it wasn't a good way to do things as evidenced by all the chipped up broken corners we see on older anvils that were hardened that way.

George

I think that the anvil is better to be harder than the hammer. at least that's how I prefer it. it's better to have a dented hammer, which could be dressed after, than a dented anvil.

On Sunday, September 25, 2016 at 3:59 PM, Frosty said:

Welcome aboard Marvin, glad to have you. That's a heck of a score for $50, I would've jumped on it and let Deb yell. I certainly wouldn't try refacing it. There has bee some serious delamination on the heal, two sizable pieces are missing. There's a high probability it's either delaminated or close in other places. Facing over a delaminated layer will cause the delamination to extend as a HAZ effect. Do you REALLY want to grind what face it has left off to be sure?

A lot of still usable anvils have been ruined permanently by experienced welders working in well equipped shops. There is just a LOT more to hard facing thick sections than laying down some rod. It's certainly doable but it's a LOT of work to do right, about as much as just making an anvil. Even a small repair takes a full day to preheat, weld, grind and post heat. Yeah, I hot grind with a cup stone to profile then finish with fine grit wheel and finally sandpaper after it's cooled. the NEXT day.

You ARE aware of the number of passes build up and hard facing rods are limited to yes? A guy can fudge it some but not a lot, especially with the hard face.

Yeah, I've burned maybe a couple thousand lbs of hard face rod and wire. There's A right way to do it and then all the ways some guys have been doing it for years.

Frosty The Lucky.

Glad to be on board 

I agree as long as it dosent effect the rebound 

Put them rods away, you've just scored a perfectly usable anvil with "extra" features that who knows how many people have spent their working lives creating! and all for a misely 50$

If you have to weld anything, make some tools for that hardly hole and get some metal up to forging temps.....!

7 hours ago, matei campan said:

I think that the anvil is better to be harder than the hammer. at least that's how I prefer it. it's better to have a dented hammer, which could be dressed after, than a dented anvil.

Made properly, with the help of trained experienced metallurgists at the mill. The steel will have a correct degree of molybdenum in it which will give it a work hardening feature. The more it gets used the harder it gets. You won't dent it.

George

If you don't want it, I'll happily take it off your hands for 50 + Shipping.  Even with shipping I will come away ahead.  

Use it.