1/2 t burner.  We're waiting on a pressure regulator. I was able to get it to heat a 5/8 rebar. The forge is a coffee can forge and insulation is homemade mix of plaster of Paris and sand.  I'm currently working on a bigger forge that will be insulated with kaelwool.  I'm building this for my younger brother who is a disabled war vet. 

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About the only thing I could make out from the picture is that the flame is pulsing. Try another vidio after the regulator comes?

 

I will. I had the tank cracked open and my emergency ball valve barely open.  The body is just over 19 inches long diameter 8 inches across.   My brother dead set on using. This is a fire extinguisher He cut the top and bottom off.  He kept the top and bottom. Illvbe lining it with kaelwool.  My best calculation is 245ish cubic inches.   Be cause of the length doing two half inch t burners.  

There's a large part of the problem. Tank and ball valves are on/off, NOT regulatory valves. (throttles) The pulsing is likely because the ball valve was open more than the tank valve so the line pressure was pulsing. Just cracking either kind of valve will erode them quickly though a 1/4 turn ball valve is more robust than a tank valve. At least get a needle valve and open the tank valve all the way. When you turn te tank valve off do NOT reef on it, it'll damage the valve seats and you'll have to reef on it to get it to close and before long you'll have to replace the leaking valve.

Lose the plaster of Paris and sand, it's worthless as a forge liner, it is in NO WAY refractory. You need to do some quality reading, forget Youtube, FB, etc. till you know enough to sift the nuggets from the truckloads of worthless dross. Whatever you do ignore the King of Randumb, his . . . stuff is dangerously Mickey Mouse.

The propane forge section here on Iforge is full of good forge and burner designs. Read through, most are reviewed by folk who've used them, pick one you feel within your shop skills and follow that ONE set of plans. Mixing and matching almost always results in disasters for the beginner.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

I am building a second forge. With kaelwool.  Regulator on the way. Have been reading like crazy.   This is the forge body he is using. The diameters is 8 inches. Lenght 19 inches.  Body stainless steel.  The other forge I  built ages ago. The burner wad from a thread on micro burner here and links from other members.  

Tried to edit and can't find the answer. Ok here is my question. Do I want the needle valve in conjunction with my regulator.  I ordered a 0-60 off Amazon.  

No.  The regulator by itself is sufficient.  You may want to leave the ball valve in place to have a quick shutoff option though.

Yes; you want the regulator on the far end of your hose at the fuel cylinder, hopefully far away from the forge. When used this way the regulator provides a ballpark estimate of the desired fuel flow, and a needle valve provides instant fine adjustment.

Also, when separated from a cylinder mounted regulator by about 20 feet of fuel hose, the needle valve can provide a little positive pressure above that of the regulator setting; wiping out the irritating fluctuations you otherwise get at times from cold fuel in the winter months.

So, who's answer is correct? They both are; it's a question of choose.

Finally regulator arrived. 0-40psi. Works great. Just playing with it for now.  Next kaelwool for forge body interior.  Next months order.  

 

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