David Einhorn Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 Side-blast forges used by the U.S. Army and Navy during the U.S. War Between the States did not use chimneys. My side-blast Naval and Army mid-1800s forges don't have chimneys and work fine that way. These are three mid-1800s side blast portable forges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 Hi David, glad to see your byline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockstar.esq Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 Thank you Charles. I tried to post this video which shows a portable side blast with a separate / modular tuyere that's set up to connect to a cooling bosh via hoses. It's shown at the 15:22 mark. I noticed he's using steel lines for the plumbing, but it seems like copper plumbing line would work just as well. I have a hand crank blower with a 2-1/2" diameter outlet. Should I have a smaller hole at the tuyere nozzle? I saw earlier comments about 3/4" being good but that was with an electric bouncy castle blower. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockstar.esq Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 Just out of curiosity, if the water's below boiling, wouldn't a plastic tank work? I'm thinking of a garbage can because they're cheap, water tight, light weight, and have plenty of capacity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 1 hour ago, rockstar.esq said: Just out of curiosity, if the water's below boiling, wouldn't a plastic tank work? I'm thinking of a garbage can because they're cheap, water tight, light weight, and have plenty of capacity. Sure, if you don't mind the hot water softening the plastic to the point that it springs a leak or collapses under the weight of the water. Doesn't have to melt to lose structural integrity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockstar.esq Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 JHCC, Sorry, my earlier post didn't mention that I was considering cans with 35-55 gallon capacity. I've never been around a side blast forge before so I don't have any idea how much they'll heat up a given volume of water. The Aspery plans call for a metal tank that's got around 16 gallons capacity to keep from boiling the water off. Still, it's not that big a deal to get a galvanized trash can to have the structural rigidity when/if it gets warm. Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 3/4-1" is a good size tuyere for us hobiests. It will give you about a 6" hotspot. You need to taper the tuyere as you do the water jacket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broadus Posted May 21, 2016 Author Share Posted May 21, 2016 When I build a much bigger indoor forge I want to try to build it with a remotely placed bosh on top of the forge. There's a good photo of this type of set up in Richard Postmans book on mousehole forge, I would post it but I believe the photo is copyrighted... the bosh works the same way a "pop pop boat" or coffee pot works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Everything Mac Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 On 5/21/2016 at 4:21 AM, Broadus said: When I build a much bigger indoor forge I want to try to build it with a remotely placed bosh on top of the forge. There's a good photo of this type of set up in Richard Postmans book on mousehole forge, I would post it but I believe the photo is copyrighted... the bosh works the same way a "pop pop boat" or coffee pot works. So how is this build progressing then? Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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