mofokaye Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Hello all. My workplace has just acquired an Alldays and Onions 1CWT hammer. It's well battered, but with a bit of TLC I've got it running pretty well. However, until it's warmed up properly, the ram really struggles to raise properly back into the tup allowing it to deliver a full blow. It just judders up and down delivering small short blows. The warmer it gets, the more this improves. I've noticed the "Relief Valve" on the back of the hammer is missing, and has been replaced by a simple homemade flap valve. Was wondering if this could have anything to do with my problem. Any thoughts on what could be causing this? The whole hammer is thoroughly lubricated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob S Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/shop/alldays2.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 I posted the user manual and the specification brochure on here a few months ago. They cover all the Alldays models. Do a search and if the .pdfs have gone missing drop me a pm with your email and I will send them over. Whereabouts in the world are you from? With an Alldays presumably in the UK or one of its former colonies. There will probably be a fellow Alldays owner not far away. Lack of lift sounds like a valve issue. There are two on the valve drum, the blow off valve on the back and the cushion valve under the cylinder head. All easily replaceable. The blow off / relief / flap valve on the back is simple as standard on the 1CWT, whether yours is homemade or not. The 2 and 3CWT ones have a rotary vent/decompression valve as well to aid with starting. There are detailed instructions in the manual to maintain performance after wear, drilling and plugging holes in the valve drum to tweak it. Does the one you are dealing with have a cam operated oil pump on the crankshaft or a hand pump on back? Alan Tried to add this and the silly software lost it....Does the one you are dealing with have a cam operated oil pump on the crankshaft or a hand pump on back? When you say thoroughly lubricated...it rings alarm bells. Three of the five incidents which stopped my 50 kg Reiter and my 3CWT Alldays working were as a result of over lubrication. Too much grease in the main bearing of the Reiter caused the the drive belts to rot after ten years. Too much grease in the motor shaft bearings of the 3 CWT required a motor rewind. Too much oil throughput in the airways of the Reiter caused the disc valves to stick open and then the tup would not come down.... They need the correct amount... unlike open slide hammers that need the flushing system of excess oil to keep the slides healthy. Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 How tight is the ram guide plate? and are you manually lubricating it as it seems to be a part that will not get lube through the internal oiling system. I really needs to only be tight enough to stop the ram rotating and to stop the plate "knocking" ie lifting and dropping with the ram. at least thats my experience. I manually oil the flats before start up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mofokaye Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 I've already got a copy of the user manual, thanks to your helpful upload! I'm reluctant to mess around with the valving, but will give it a go if necessary. I briefly inspected the valve a few weeks back before we got it running and didn't notice anything unusual, will have to take another look though. I'm in Somerset, UK. I have a friend in Wales with 2cwt, will have to get in touch with him. It's fitted with a manual hand pump. I opened both cylinders and the valve and cleaned it all out, as there was a lot of old sticky congealed oil in there. I then gave it all a thin coating of fresh oil and let it sit for a week. All other bearings were then greased as instructed in the manual. I know the main crank bearing at the back was repaired at some point, but the repair seems to be solid. The ram plate seems to be fine, but I'll give it a look when I go in on tuesday. I manually oil all our hammer rams at startup just out of habit. Thanks for the advice all, I'll check it over next week and letcha know what I find Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 Do you know anything of the history of the machine? Can you talk to the previous owner and enquire as to its state of health? There is not a lot to go wrong. As Owen says...if the tup will drop freely (preferably tested without the motor running), then the guide bar/ram plate is not too tight. I doubt if you will need to do anything much other than strip and clean up the valve seats. I have replaced one of the valves on the drum, I seem to remember it was cracked on its flex line. I just used a micrometer and matched the thickness. Very simple to make. Useful to have a sharp bench shear and a step drill or punch for the bolt holes. All processes to keep it flat and prevent any distortion so it will seal. You could post a video possibly, that might help any diagnosis. Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Any update on progress? Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mofokaye Posted March 27, 2016 Author Share Posted March 27, 2016 Sorry Alan, been hectic and not had a chance to have a good look yet. I've determined it's nothing to do with the ram guide, but that's as far as I've been able to get so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forgemaster Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 On 03/03/2016 at 5:19 AM, mofokaye said: Hello all. My workplace has just acquired an Alldays and Onions 1CWT hammer. It's well battered, but with a bit of TLC I've got it running pretty well. However, until it's warmed up properly, the ram really struggles to raise properly back into the tup allowing it to deliver a full blow. It just judders up and down delivering small short blows. The warmer it gets, the more this improves. I've noticed the "Relief Valve" on the back of the hammer is missing, and has been replaced by a simple homemade flap valve. Was wondering if this could have anything to do with my problem. Any thoughts on what could be causing this? The whole hammer is thoroughly lubricated. Is the relief valve missing or is the unloading valve missing? I'm confused. A photo would help lots. When we want short dead blows on our 2cwt alldays we will partially open the unloading valve to blow off some of the air, giving us a nice short controlled dead blow. What is the home made flap valve made out of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 55 minutes ago, forgemaster said: Is the relief valve missing or is the unloading valve missing? I'm confused. A photo would help lots. When we want short dead blows on our 2cwt alldays we will partially open the unloading valve to blow off some of the air, giving us a nice short controlled dead blow. What is the home made flap valve made out of? There is no rotary unloading valve on the 1cwt, in case you did not know. But I have heard either you or others refer to cracking open the unloading/decompression/rotary valve to give lighter blows....mine is too easily rotated, it drifts itself shut if left ajar when hammering. Any advice as to increasing the friction to hold it in place? It has a tapered dowel pin through the boss of the lever plate I think. Perhaps a shim between the lever plate and the valve cylinder? I turned mine upside down. The lever was on the bottom and the air vented upwards when I got the hammer...I thought it was a great way of letting grinding dust get sucked into the bore, so now have the lever on top and the air escape pointing down. Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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