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I Forge Iron

A bearing and a pallet


Branstetter

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Nice profile. Good looking first knife. Your "driftwood" is spectacular. How did you attach the scales? Internal pins? 

You shouldn't need to rely on luck in order to properly heat treat. There are plenty of stickies and knifemaking lessons in this forum to answer such questions. You can learn how to test even mystery steel by experimentation. ;)

Robert

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did you anneal it before heat treating? if not that might have helped. it can't and won't resolve all problems but it does relive some of the stress in the blade.

                                                                                                        Littleblacksmith

annealing is a heat treatment

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Thank you.

Internal pins and epoxy hold it all together.  

The reason I say 'lucked out' is because I'm new to the process. I have read as much as I could about heat treating but still need to get more of the hands on experience to acquire the feel for it. Thanks for the input, I'll take all I can get! 

And I'm quite certain what the material is. These rollers came from a very large timken, 11-3/4" O.D., luckily quality steel. A friend gave me 3 of these bearings so I have about 100 rollers to play with as well as the very heavy internal and external races. Should be enough material to keep me learning for some time. 

 

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One trick that I was told that has helped my heat treating process GREATLY might be something to try. 

If you are using an open solid fuel forge ( Coal / Charcoal ) stick a pipe in the forge which your knife will fit into, and then heap coals around it. the pipe will help uniformly heat the knife without direct contact with the flames, and since it is inside the pipe, its easier to see the decalescence in the blade where it makes the phase change. also makes it less likely you will overheat the blade.

I also use the pipe trick for my normalizations, that way I can watch the blade and make sure it does not get too hot, works a treat for grain refinement. 

Nice knife, I like how the scale on the blade and the handle material complement each other. 

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1 hour ago, Malice9610 said:

One trick that I was told that has helped my heat treating process GREATLY might be something to try. 

If you are using an open solid fuel forge ( Coal / Charcoal ) stick a pipe in the forge which your knife will fit into, and then heap coals around it. the pipe will help uniformly heat the knife without direct contact with the flames, and since it is inside the pipe, its easier to see the decalescence in the blade where it makes the phase change. also makes it less likely you will overheat the blade.

I also use the pipe trick for my normalizations, that way I can watch the blade and make sure it does not get too hot, works a treat for grain refinement. 

Nice knife, I like how the scale on the blade and the handle material complement each other. 

Malice9610, do you close off the end of the pipe? 

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