Ernie42141 Posted January 13, 2016 Posted January 13, 2016 (edited) Team. Attached are pics of my improvised anvil idea. Block is 14x30x2 1/2 inches. Wondering if I should mount it on my 12 I-beam with ano 8x17x3/4 plate. Would it help bounce or just set it on a stump? Edited January 13, 2016 by Ernie42141 Added pic Quote
MrDarkNebulah Posted January 13, 2016 Posted January 13, 2016 From what ive heard Putting it on a stump seems the best option. Putting more things underneath your anvil just gives more gaps and places for you lose rebound. The stump minimizes that. Quote
Ernie42141 Posted January 13, 2016 Author Posted January 13, 2016 Thanks Thomas. I am taking your guys suggestions I do know this thing rings like crazy now hope it quiets down on the stump Quote
ThomasPowers Posted January 13, 2016 Posted January 13, 2016 To really quiet it down you need some way to damp it. I put a tapered punch in the pritchel hole of my anvil---loose! to quiet it down as I recall that one has several holes you might try that trick on. Quote
Forging Carver Posted January 13, 2016 Posted January 13, 2016 To quite your anvil, putting a few magnets under the heel works pretty well from what I have seen and heard. I am trying to post the video link, but it won't let me post it Quote
Frosty Posted January 13, 2016 Posted January 13, 2016 Mount it on end, it'll have a much deeper incident of rebound. It'll hit back MUCH harder. As it is it's going to flex under the hammer sucking up a LOT of energy and ring like a bell. If you welded it to the I beam it'd be . . . O - K. On end you have more than enough face to work with, you only need a little more than the hammer's face. You can straighten with the large flat surface by doing it vertically which will give you a better sight line to see what's happening. You're better off straightening over a wood block with a wooden mallet though. Lastly, on end will give you a LOT of edges you can grind into useful shapes for instance: various radii to form shoulders up to fullers, various hardies, hot and butcher. You can also grind swages. See some of Charles rail anvil shapes for excellent examples. Frosty The Lucky. Quote
Forging Carver Posted January 13, 2016 Posted January 13, 2016 Still not working, but look up techinucus Joe how to quite an anvils ringing. Quote
Ernie42141 Posted January 13, 2016 Author Posted January 13, 2016 Good ideas. Hadn't thought of edge mountings Quote
Nobody Special Posted January 14, 2016 Posted January 14, 2016 What Frosty said. Brian Brazeal has a cool version with different surfaces. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wazxY5-hXK8 Your's oughta be close to 280 lbs, even with all the spaces cut out. That's a whole lot of anvil. Quote
House of D Posted January 14, 2016 Posted January 14, 2016 Ernie, I don't know about heavy plate anvils, but I do know this. My small Refflinghaus anvil, 180lbs, was first mounted to a stump, strapped down hard. That Baby rang like the liberty bell on the Fourth of July! I built a large 1" plate, vertical H frame with a 1" top and bottom plate, so I could actually get my feet under the anvil if I so desired. Picture an H placed so without the top and bottom plate it would leave the H shape on the ground and the anvil base. Anyway, it shut the ring down completely. Don't know the science behind it, but the steel stand stopped the ring. And it was heavily strapped to it as well. My 500 pound reff, went straight onto steel. Doesn't ring so you notice. D A pile of chain wrapped around the waist will shut ringing down too! For easy fixin'! D Quote
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