the_sandy_creek_forge Posted April 14, 2008 Share Posted April 14, 2008 Sometimes new and improved, just isn't. Finnr Ya know... I had a professor in college (older gentleman who simply refused to retire...) who would go on rants about things that were "new and improved." The premise being if something was NEW it hadn't yet had time to be IMPROVED as something NEW would be the first of its kind ever made! He was also a big proponent of reel mowers, spam, and typing up tests and quizes on a typewriter. He'd probably still be using a mimeograph if the school had one sitting around... Back on topic... For my files and cutting tools (lathe bits, shaper bits, non-coated drill bits) I've been using Singer sewing machine oil. I also use MMO for warding off rust, as well as the occasional squirt of WD40. -Aaron @ the SCF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironantlerforge Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 I use a short, wide, & long plastic bin with wheels to keep vinegar in. the kind you get at Walmart to put cloths in and then slide under the bed. This works well for me because it's wide instead of deep. I also find that vinigar not only takes away rust but also puts rust on if you clean the steel, sand blasting is best, and then spray it with vinegar over several days. I attached a couple of photos below of projects where I used this technique. Does anyone know of a cheap, better, or faster way to rust steel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mills Posted August 4, 2008 Share Posted August 4, 2008 Clean steel with Muriatic then apply Hydrogen Peroxide. it goes pretty quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easilyconfused Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 I'm having issues with acid etching and the flash rust too. I redid a project's finish after only a few weeks (I can't seem to keep anything from rusting when I make in on the farm forge). I used muratic acid and had it down to grey metal, brushed it off and sprayed it down with clear metal enamal spray paint once dry, while still grey metal. The next morning, BAM, larger areas of rust and black under the paint. This has been an ongoing issue no matter what I do. It rusts under the finish no matter what I use, whether or not I quench it in our water which is slightly acidic, or clean it in acid or just use a straight from fire finish. Wire brushing sometimes works but it's hard to clean pieces that have lots of tight curves and hidden corners. Any hints on ways to combat this? On another note, Canola Oil is rape seed that has been bred to contain low leves of erucic acid and glucosinolates to make it safer as a food product. Canola Council FAQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 How are you neutralizing the surface after the acid wash? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woody Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 If you want to remove rust from steel quickly and without using any hazardous materials such as acids, fill a plastic container with water, add a copious amount of baking soda to the water. Then attach a wire to a steel or stainelss steel plate and hang it in the water. Attach a wire to the rusty object and hang it in the water on the opposite side of the container from the steel or stainless steel plate. Attach the negative lead from a battery charger to the wire attached to the rusty object and the positive lead to the wire attached to the steel or stainless steel plate. Turn on the battery charger and walk away. In a short time the rusty metal will be cleaned to bare metal and the water can be saved for further use or poured down the drain. No hazardous waste to clean up. Woody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easilyconfused Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 I usually rinse it with water. I suppose I should be using baking soda, even when I use quench since the water is acidic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waianvil Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 I use pickle vinegur it a drywall can after I get a piece all done forgeing then I put it in a drywall put it in there over nite next day take it out next day all the slake brush right off and looks a new piece of steel again,need to put a lid on the drywall container Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironantlerforge Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 After taking the steel out of the vinigar I hose it off with the garden hose which usually removes all the rust down to the bare metal if it has been in the vinigar for a couple of days. I then use an air hose or torch to dry it off. I never really have any problems with flash rust after that. Without waiting too long though, I spray "Deft" lacquer on my pieces which after a lot testing works better than many other products and is affordable. Walmart is the cheapest place I have found. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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