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I Forge Iron

Fire place set


4JS

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Just completed these. It's only the second or third thing I've ever built honest opinions and thoughts please. Sorry for them bring sideways the website has been doing that for some reason when I upload from my phone image.thumb.jpeg.e1f79e28a2150f4aa160276

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55 minutes ago, Errorgance said:

well, they don't look as straight as they should, that said, the rest looks great and your anti gravity is spot on!

I actually think they look like a bend from the picture. They're actually pretty darn straight surprisingly. 

 

I was as asked to make another set when I dropped this one off by a guy who saw it which makes me happy.

 

 

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Well done seeing it through. Good news to have a follow on order. 

I use a carpenters wooden mallet and a lump of oak as an anvil to straighten pieces. Wood does this without bruises to surfaces and details that do not need hammer marks added.

It is not the camera lens' distortion. The twists are not "actually pretty darn straight".  The wobbles are easy to see if you have been trying to straighten things for any length of time, you get to know what to look for...You do need to look at your work with a more critical eye, indeed you have to be your most stern critic if you want to improve your technique and your eye. It would be a great idea to keep these photographs to hand so that you could look back in the future and see the progress of your critical development.

That said, you are the creator and maybe twists with that degree of wobble are maybe what you were trying to achieve. The reason why is again your choice. But you must be able to recognise and acknowledge them for what they are.

I have struggled all my working life to get good photographs of my work. I have even hired professional photographers to document projects and they have all made the same mistake initially. It is so easy for our brain to focus on the object in the foreground and ignore the background. Cameras and light meters are not that smart. Even with a dense metal screen, the grid is only 20%. The camera invariably reads the light and the distance of the objects on the other side. It is almost inevitable that the ironwork ends up as a splodgy vague silhouette in front of a beautifully exposed and in-focus background.

The best way of photographing something like your stand would be against a plain background with no light source or light flare showing behind (as opposed to backlighting). The piece should be well lit from the front, slightly to one side of the camera (do not use a built-in camera flash) which will bring out the patina and the 3D form. If the camera allows, take a spot focus and light reading off the actual object. You can hold up a board in the same plane as the object and take a reading off that if no spot focus facility is available.

The hint of the train set and the Christmas tree, the fancy doors, the rug and the wall light, curtain and door frame are great if you are wanting to show off those things....but they distract the viewer's eye from your companion set.

Hope this helps.

Merry Christmas.

Alan

 

 

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4 hours ago, Alan Evans said:

Well done seeing it through. Good news to have a follow on order. 

I use a carpenters wooden mallet and a lump of oak as an anvil to straighten pieces. Wood does this without bruises to surfaces and details that do not need hammer marks added.

It is not the camera lens' distortion. The twists are not "actually pretty darn straight".  The wobbles are easy to see if you have been trying to straighten things for any length of time, you get to know what to look for...You do need to look at your work with a more critical eye, indeed you have to be your most stern critic if you want to improve your technique and your eye. It would be a great idea to keep these photographs to hand so that you could look back in the future and see the progress of your critical development.

That said, you are the creator and maybe twists with that degree of wobble are maybe what you were trying to achieve. The reason why is again your choice. But you must be able to recognise and acknowledge them for what they are.

I have struggled all my working life to get good photographs of my work. I have even hired professional photographers to document projects and they have all made the same mistake initially. It is so easy for our brain to focus on the object in the foreground and ignore the background. Cameras and light meters are not that smart. Even with a dense metal screen, the grid is only 20%. The camera invariably reads the light and the distance of the objects on the other side. It is almost inevitable that the ironwork ends up as a splodgy vague silhouette in front of a beautifully exposed and in-focus background.

The best way of photographing something like your stand would be against a plain background with no light source or light flare showing behind (as opposed to backlighting). The piece should be well lit from the front, slightly to one side of the camera (do not use a built-in camera flash) which will bring out the patina and the 3D form. If the camera allows, take a spot focus and light reading off the actual object. You can hold up a board in the same plane as the object and take a reading off that if no spot focus facility is available.

The hint of the train set and the Christmas tree, the fancy doors, the rug and the wall light, curtain and door frame are great if you are wanting to show off those things....but they distract the viewer's eye from your companion set.

Hope this helps.

Merry Christmas.

Alan

 

 

It helps greatly. I see what you are talking about when you described it as w wobble. I'm going to try using the wooden mallet technique on the next one I make when I have to straighten things. It just so happens my wife asked me a few weeks ago what the kids could get me for Christmas and I told her a big wooden mallet.

I've found that each time I make something I learn a lot and it helps that much more with you all critiquing my work. I appreciate it very much.

 

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