SReynolds Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 35 pounder for 135.00 farrier's anvil. It is quite wide. Not so long, but it works well.........7/8 inch hardie hole and 1/2 inch pritchel.It is solid cast steel. My concern is that if it is cast steel aka poured in one piece, why can the hammer dent the horn but not the face. makes no sense to me.............it is all the same steel. just saying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 Better not make any blades till you learn about differential heat treating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SReynolds Posted October 14, 2015 Author Share Posted October 14, 2015 I don't do blades and simply don't understand all the romance with them. At all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 With the "shelf" most farriers anvils have, taking the anvil and heating it to critical, or atleast the face, fliping it over and placing it on a cooled block of alluminum or coper (quench plate) and alowing it the mas to cool to the temeture you want to temper the face at and then fliping it back over to allow it to cool works well, as many farriers anvils are acualy maluable iron they use another method, called flame hardening to harden the face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 (edited) OK that's fine; it's just in blades were we generally see differentially tempered and differentially hardened steels on a personal basis these days. Think of heating an anvil so that the body is up to critical and the horn isn't and then quenching or heating the whole thing up but not quenching the horn---differential hardening, (flame hardening is another differential method) OR take the piece that has all been heated and quenched and draw temper in an oven to straw and then take it out of the oven and use a torch to draw the horn to blue---differential tempering. To make things more involved you can do both! Edited October 14, 2015 by ThomasPowers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean1017 Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 Mr. Reynolds - Regarding Cliff Carrol anvils - I bought my last anvil - a Cliff Carroll 125 lb - at Cliff's, from Cliff, at his place there in Larkspur, Colorado. That's it in the photo. He took me around his shop and building in the back where he prepares his anvils after he gets them from the iron/steel works and before he ships them. Has a very interesting setup and process for hardening the face and I'm not smart enough to adequately describe it, but it's where the face (not the horn) gets hardened, they are cleaned up, painted and shipped all over the place - I even saw one of his anvils in Afghanistan! Anyway, if you get a chance to ever stop by his shop - Larkspur is north of Colorado Springs - you should, as he's about the nicest guy you'll ever meet and you'll learn quite a bit about how anvils are made these days. Most of all - enjoy that anvil.......Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 All Anvils will work harden slightly. Get to work on it. If you dent it, take a Ball Pein or a hammer and punch and work all around the dent. The dent will disappear, Honest. Enjoy the little devil. The Devil made you do it!! Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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