Bo T Posted July 10, 2015 Share Posted July 10, 2015 Just previewed a couple of anvils that are up for auction. No pictures but, the Trenton is excellent across the top with negligible chipping and no delamination of the plate. It is busted at the waist and repaired with a weld on each side (Looks like a poor repair at that). Rebound in the middle is OK >50%. Towards the tail rebound falls off. It wasn't welded front or back so I guess this indicates give at the waist. Difficulty/cost of repairing the waist? The other is a little @30# Vulcan that has seen use but is in good shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judson Yaggy Posted July 10, 2015 Share Posted July 10, 2015 Rebound always falls off at the tip of horn and heel because there is LESS MASS under the hammer. 50% in the middle of an anvil is low end of useable, 50% out past the pritchell is probably ok. Some Trentons were electric welded at the waist from the factory. Are you sure it's a repair and not original? What was the serial #? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bo T Posted July 11, 2015 Author Share Posted July 11, 2015 The weld looks like a big ugly H with the bead sticking out about 1/4". The break can be seen front and back with @ 6" horizontal bead on each side with vertical beads on each side of the horizontal weld. Here is a link http://spokane.craigslist.org/gms/5100870070.html , the other side is similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted July 11, 2015 Share Posted July 11, 2015 It is fishplated. Probably a surface repair with (relative to the width of the anvil) slight veeing.Pretty time consuming repair if you are paying the wrong guy shop rates. Or, pretty doable if you have industrial duty flux core and knowledge of how steel hardening works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted July 11, 2015 Share Posted July 11, 2015 Sign up for a night welding course at your local community college. Tuition usually includes your consumables. A friend of mine made an anvil at our night class, a big MIG running a .0625" core wire made short work of the welding. He was laying down beads as big as my thumb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarry Dog Posted July 11, 2015 Share Posted July 11, 2015 You'd be surprised how much fill you can do with larger sized wire in a short time. I run .065 dual shield at work. It takes what would be an all day project with 1/8" 7018, and jams it into a couple hours. The slag pops off on its own half the time, as well as hold the metal up a little bit when you're doing vertical. It also seems to penetrate deeper, and make a very smooth profile too. I was doing "surface" welds on 1/4" plates that were butted up against each other, only to flip them over and find out that the weld had penetrated to the other side, and without a lot of over-reinforcement. Then again, the cone turns black from all the heat I'm throwing off. I once had the opportunity to run some 1/8" hard wire in my high school shop class, and I had no idea what I was doing. I made the ugliest pull-up bar you've ever seen. I'd love to try it again on something, now that I have somewhat of a clue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bo T Posted July 13, 2015 Author Share Posted July 13, 2015 Went and bid on the anvils, but someone else wanted them more than me. At the preview, one of the old guys said it was all of 300#. A smith today, found the stamped weight said it was 132#. Another looked at it and said it was 192#. It looked like 182# to me. Anyway, the serial # looked like A10916. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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