This anvil says Green at the bottom.  I can't locate any information on a green anvil.  What do you all think this anvil is and how old is it?  Thanks for the help.  

Stamp may be a personal stamp too. Can't see much in that picture but it looks a bit like a Vulcan or Vulcan clone.

Knowing at least what country you are in would help.

The horn doesn't look like a Vulcan's horn. The picture you posted won't enlarge. Does it have handling holes? More and bigger pictures would help identifying it.

I'm in NC.  I'll post more pics later today.  It does have handling holes and looks like a mousehole anvil.

I'm sure its an European anvil because it's got 1 0 18 as the stone weight on the opposite side of the anvil. 

NC   New Caledonia (French: Nouvelle-Calédonie) is a special collectivity of France located in the southwest Pacific Ocean, 1,210 km (750 mi) east of Australia

Probably from France as you are in a French collectivity....world wide web ya' know

Can we see a picture of the stone weight and any other markings on it?  The fat, short heel, short horn and little height in the step transition was what I was basing my call on.  Does it weigh 130 pounds?

Edited June 4, 201510 yr by ThomasPowers

The horn does look like a Mousehole forge anvil's horn but the heel is USUALLY shorter on a Mousehole. It may just be the angle of the picture though that makes the heel look longer than it is.

This anvil says Green at the bottom.  I can't locate any information on a green anvil.  What do you all think this anvil is and how old is it?  Thanks for the help.  

 

Those photos are much better, thanks.  Obvious globbed together forge welds in the body, visible face plate weld line, and overall shape strongly indicate English import.   There were hundreds? of makers of similar anvils in that era so who knows.  Call it a Green and get hammering.  Not much rarity value if you are planning to take it to ebay unless you can dig up a better story than you are finding here.  It's functional for a smith but beat up for a collector... kind of small in my opinion (grin).  There are 2 or 3 guys on here who might know better, perhaps they will chime in.

Some of those Hay Budds you have in the background look like nice users.

Edited June 5, 201510 yr by Judson Yaggy

Yes the clear pictures clearly contradict my earlier musings!  (save that Green might have been the owner)

Traditionally forged anvil; not a bad weight; does the pritchel hole look to be drilled rather than punched? (If so it may be a retrofit pushing the date of the anvil back a bit further.)

the pritchel hole was punched from the bottom side and was punched at a slight angle. the hardy hole is also crooked with a slight taper on all four sides.                                                                                                                                                                               ps posting for hammerhead73 thanks joe

It looks a lot like a Mousehole although mine and all the ones that I have seen have the weight and maker stamp on the other side.

Edited June 5, 201510 yr by Anthony San Miguel

I can tell you that green probably isn't the person's name because I found this thread looking for info on an anvil just like yours that says Green too and has another word under that one. I'm a total newbie to anvils, forges, ect but I have a twin to yours except my horn has been broken off.

Welcome to IFI David... I suggest reading this to get the best out of the forum.https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/53873-read-this-first/

 

We also have an Anvil with the name GREEN ON IT AND is like the first picture

Someone has offered to buy ours yet we are not sure if we should let it go. This farm was started in the 1800's so we are unsure of how long my husband's ancestors actually had it.

Well age of the anvil may not correlate with how long they had it; (after all I have an 1828 William Foster anvil that I bought; but I'm not quite that old!)

Does the pritchel hole exist and if so does it look like it was punched in (irregularities on the bottom side of it). If  no hole; then probably before the 1820's. If drilled hole; then may have been retrofitted. If punched hole; probably after the 1820's.

Are the feet small, sharp and forge welded on?  Evidence of  the anvil be welded up out of chunks?  Face shows evidence of being welded on in sections?  The more chunks an anvil was made from the generally earlier it was.

Welcome to IFI Tammy, I always suggest reading this to get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST  Knowing your general location will help with answers, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show it.

Do you have any pictures of your anvil?

I also have one of these that I just acquired. It belonged to my great grandfather. That would make me think 1800s. The heel is broken off. The numbers on it are 0 2 maybe another mark or number and the 26.

I know this post is three years old but hoping someone checks in.  I have this exact same anvil except the heel has been broken off.  Did you ever figure out where they were made and how much they are worth?

Worth depends a lot on location; which of the 100+ countries that participate in these forums on the World Wide Web should we assume you are in?   Does yours say Green on it too?  The stampings have to match to be the exact same as there are a LOT of different anvil makers in England that made almost identical anvils---they tended to learn the business working for Mousehole or Peter Wright and then go off and start up themselves making anvils like they were trained on. As I recall Postman has identified over 200 makers so far.

I bought my apx 125# Powell missing a heel with a beautiful face and fair horn for US$40 in the mid 1990's in Columbus OH.

Pictures of your anvil may help in identifying it and what it is worth. The main thing in estimating value is the location, condition, ring and rebound.

I've updated my location.  I believe it's the exact same as those shown above.  This one is in need of some repair but I'm pretty proficient with a welder.  Picked it up at a local antique store this morning.

Being proficient with a welder is important when repairing an anvil. However knowing how to do that without ruining it is even more important. Have you ever welded on an anvil with a wrought iron base and hardened face plate? The best method of repairing anvils is in this article by Robb Gunther and Karl Schuler.

http://www.anvilmag.com/smith/anvilres.htm

Are the stampings identical?  Looks don't make it the same brand!  (Remember when all the American car dealers made all their sports cars almost identical and you had to pretty much read the name to tell them apart?)

The Gunther/Schuler is the gold standard for repair; DON'T forget the preheat!

It is in pretty sad shape for using as it is. I would not suggest it even to a beginner unless it was very cheap indeed!  Fixed it could be a nice anvil; but to fix it well is going to take a LOT of time, talent and consumables for the welder----way more than it could be sold for afterwards  probably.

Now the horn looks in good using shape in case someone with an improvised anvil needs the use of one.

New to the site and thanks in advance for any help.  My uncle gave my son an anvil with this exact maker's 'Green' stamp on one side and '1 1 25' stamped on the other (believe this makes this anvil 165#?).  My uncle was given the anvil from his great uncle who's family settled in Willow City, TX in the 1800s and my great, great uncle's brother worked at the Morris Thoroughbred Ranch where Max Hirsch, the famous race horse trainer started at 12 years old.

I was trying to find a date or at least an era when this anvil was made.