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New To Me Kinyon Hammer Tuning


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Hi. I've lurked here long enough. I'm a novice blacksmith and bladesmith. I just picked up an excellently built Kinyon 55lb hammer.  It runs great, and hits HARD.  I have difficulty getting it to be more delicate however.  Would adding a pressure regulator at the hammer inlet, giving me the ability to decrease operating pressure, be my best initial approach?  If so, are there regulators out there that are switchable to a few different settings rather then set by turning a knob?  Recommendations as to what measures to take and which equipment to use would be greatly appreciated.

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Does your Kinyon not have an exhaust ball valve (usually connected to a foot control) that regulates hammer speed and power? My Kinyon so built works swell when the spool isn't stuck. I have replaced the Norgren valve (3) three times and the tech department offers no remedy -- any suggestions out there?

Al at Nootka Forge

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It should run great on 100psi. Can you post a picture of how it's plumbed, especially the master valve block with all the hoses running in and out. They aren't that complex, we should be able to walk you through it. If I'm in the right mood, I can strike a wooden match between the flat dies without crushing the match, yours should also. 

Nootka, Are you using a remote oiler/air dryer close to, but not mounted on, your hammer? Is it flowing the correct direction, first drying, then oiling. Does it consume the oil out of the oiler? keep turning it up until a puddle forms under the treadle exhaust after a couple hours work, then turn it down a bit. I heard marvel mystery oil eats the glands in the spool valves. I been using air tool oil from the NAPA auto parts store, doing fine for 3 yrs. 

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Ok. Here are a few pictures of my hammer, and it's plumbing setup.

i did lube up the foot pedal/exhaust valve, and it works somewhat better.  When I exhaust just enough for a light blow, the hammer is very slow to rise.  I'm not sure if this is normal. Extending the foot pedal might increase my control.

There is no inline oiler. Just a cheapo air filter/dryer.  A recommendation for a particular one to get would be appreciated.

I am in the Port Orchard WA area and would love to meet up with other blacksmith/blade smiths in the area.

Thanks so much for everyone's help.

 

 

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Edited by Jspool
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Good Morning,

Please add your location to your avatar. There are a lot of very knowledgeable Blacksmith's in your area. check out North West Blacksmith Association www.blacksmith.org

There are quite a few hammers of that style, in the Puget Sound area.

Neil

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  • 2 months later...

I am a happy camper.  Tonight I was measuring the distance between my dies to see how much room I have for tooling.  There was only 4", but I realized that I could loosen and slide the rocker valve up a couple inches giving me 6".  Checking out how the hammer runs with the rocker valve all the way up surprised the heck out of me!  Now when I apply a small amount of air the tup will dance without striking the dies, and as I increase exhaust, I can tap the work, slam hard, or anything in between.  This is great!

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  • 2 weeks later...

you definitely need an oiler. also, that's a lot of valving weight hanging on the top of the cylinder considering the amount of vibration the hammer generates. i'd mount the valving on a seperate plate and use soft hoses. Check out the valving on the youtube.com New style Kinyon hammer head redesign. We never had a problem with that mounting.

John

www.gearhartironwerks.com

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I watched both of the videos you made John. Before and after the head modifications.  That's a pretty impressive hammer, especially after the head mod.  I really like the control you have with it.  Would I benefit any by using a larger valve with larger ports, or are the benefits marginal?  I had called Parker regarding their recommendation for an oiler and they told me that the cylinder is lubed at the factory and doesn't require one with the work level I put my hammer through (one man hobby shop).  If I were to install an oiler I imagine it would be restricted to the cylinder only and I don't want any oil getting to the trigger valve, etc., right?

i apologize for my lack of understanding as to how a tool I own even works!  I understand some hydraulics, but pneumatics present a different twist to the equation !

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