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Tongs from scratch......


SReynolds

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Began making tongs after nearly five years in the trade.......

hey..I have stuff to do and I ain't into making tools just yet, so I began to experiment with tongs. The price for store bought is well over 35.00/pair.

 

The De La Ronde book says to flatten-out you a spot on the end....for the jaw,,,anywhere. You choose. Then rotate 180° or half a turn and flatted out another spot for the pin boss.

.....so if I flatten out a spot for the jaw...then turn the round or square stock 1/2 a turn, and make me another flat spot......how is that making anything?...other than one long flat spot? Says to do so at two different location in the same chapter. so It can't be a mis-print. There must be a secret to a pair of tongs made from a very long flatted area?

Thinking I will simply follow some YouTube video's. They are helpful. The tongs function best with the two jaw halves 90° to the pin (rivet) boss. 90° by the way, would equate to 1/4 of a turn, unless my geometrics are off.

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I think the book skipped the step of forming the boss and intructing to use the near then the far side of the anvil.

Flatten Jaw on near side of anvil, rotate 1/4 turn (I turn to the left) with jaw off the far side of anvil at a 45 and flatten boss, rotate 1/4 turn again (same direction) with boss off far edge of anvil and create off set for reigns.

If thats not clear as mud watch Brian Brazeals video on making a tong blank : ) .

 

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Good Morning Mr. Reynolds,

I have posted this before, a few times. Look in the history. This tong would be made from round or square bar larger than 5/8" ( I use 3/4" material. Square has more material than round, the same size), approx 10-12" long (longer material makes longer reins). If all you have is 1/2" square, you have to upset for the hinge and jaw area to gain enough mass.

Start on the near side of the Anvil, with enough material on the face of the Anvil for the jaw you wish to make (probably 1 1/2" - 2" long). Using half faced blows define the back of the jaw DO NOT GO TOO THIN (the back of the jaw and the front of the rein are where people make the biggest mistake. You need material in the corner to the rivet boss to support the jaw and rein). Roughly flatten the jaw area, tapered toward the tip.  For right handed people turn left, for left handed people turn right, 1/4 turn on the far side of the Anvil at 30-45 degrees (this is for the inside pinch of the jaws when tongs are put together). Half Faced blows to make the off set in the back of the jaws and full faced blows for making the hinge face area (Don't go too thin, you need approx. 5/16" thickness for your rivet area).

Now you turn again left for right handed people or right for left handed people. THIS MEANS THAT IF YOU TURN LEFT THE FIRST TIME, YOU TURN LEFT THE SECOND TIME. Not left, right or right, left!!!!!!!!! Adjust the rein so you are 90 degrees to the far side of the Anvil. Half faced blow, to define the back of the hinge area and the start of the rein, Don't go too thin!! Start drawing out the rein from the hinge area a few inches, then stop and turn your material around. Work on the rein from the hinge area to toward the end of the rein, work about 3" at a time and make sure to break the edges with your hammer, before you move to the next 3" section (if you start at the tip of the rein, you run the risk of burning the end off!!! I learned the hard way the first time, my Instructor saw me do it and let me learn!!).

When you have finished one side of the tong, make another one EXACTLY THE SAME. Figure out where you wish the rivet and punch for the rivet (It is stronger to punch for the rivet, than drill for the rivet). I leave the rivet at least 1 1/2 diameter long sticking out. Heat the rivet, put it in the tong sitting in a header and quickly set the top of the rivet (I use a smaller hammer and work very fast, this way you control the rivet). Heat up the rivet area of the tongs and gently work the reins to free them up

There are a hundred ways to finish the jaw and to offset the reins so they sit on tong racks properly. That is all personal preference. Whatever you do, make them look and work nice. Be proud of your work. When you make your first set on Tongs, mark them. You can always go back and look at them to learn from your Miss-Steaks. I still have and regularly use the first set of Tongs that I made, they are special.

This procedure works for this type of tong. Poz Bolt Tongs are a different procedure.

Neil

 

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Swedefiddle good advise from someone who sounds like they  made plenty.When people first start forging, my self included, they often think making a set of tongs will be easy, it is easy but only after you have made plenty.

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