Michael Cochran Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 I figure it's over due but I guess it's better late than never. I honestly done know what all to say so I'll just ramble a little and if anyone is curious about anything I'll answer any questions as they arise.I'll start out by saying I've been blacksmithing (in the most basic sense) for about 3 years. Mostly I mess around with scrap/found materials with the occasional new steel. My setup is rather basic including two pieces of rail, a block of steel (fabricated from 3/8" plate) four hammers, one good set of tongs and misc chisels and files, and an ever changing solid fuel forge. I've attached a few pictures showing of my wonderful tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo7 Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Hey mate your having a go, good on ya, plenty of good smiths started with very much the same gear. Good job mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 I don't see anything wrong with your kit, it'll do most anything you can do on it. A tip I like to pass on for rail on end anvils is to grind the edges of the flange and web for hardy, butcher, fuller, etc.As you stated already, you're well past your "Welcome aboard" date. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted April 17, 2015 Author Share Posted April 17, 2015 (edited) Truth be told, I mostly use the rail on end as a fuller since the rail is smaller than all but my 16oz ballpien. I will remember the tip if I end up getting a bigger piece at a later time. I can get almost as much accomplished on my small piece that measures about 3" long x 6" tall as I can the other. I have the small piece sitting on a block made up of 3/8" steel plate that's about 4x5x7 iirc. Both are sitting on 6x6" bases. I actually used to complain about not having a 'real' anvil until I started paying more attention to what I was doing and im quite happy with what I can get done with what I have. Still want a real one but relatively happy with what I have for now. Edited April 17, 2015 by M Cochran Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 (edited) I hope you saved the peice of flange and web you cut from the vertical rail, if you slice it in half, forming two "T"'s you can form one to a nice (if small) double bick, the other can be made in to a nice small stake tool. If you chose to cut the flage from the other rail you can set it into a block/stump. This will leave you with a flange that can be used for tools, including a classic "L" shaped bick. Edited April 17, 2015 by Charles R. Stevens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted April 17, 2015 Author Share Posted April 17, 2015 It's somewhere in my 'resource' pile lol. I'll look and see if it can find it. I've been thinking about a work around for not having a horn and a bick might be a useful thing. Thanks for that suggestion Charles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 Just paying it forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 You also might want to remember RR rail steel is nominally 1085 high carbon low alloy steel and is dandy for things you might want to hold an edge.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted April 17, 2015 Author Share Posted April 17, 2015 Charles, I hope that one day I'll be able to pass along some of this knowledge I've gathered.Frosty, I've heard rr rail could be used like that but I'm unsure of this one specifically. This one is rather soft, I can hit cold 1/4" mild and it'll mark the rail some. I've also cut some of the bottom flange with a hacksaw. I will try to see if the smaller bits I have will harden, I could definitely definitely use a better hot cut than what I have lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 Rail as used by the RR is NOT through hardened as they need it tough. Only the tire contact surface has been induction hardened a few thousandths deep. Play with it before you commit yourself to all the work of a blade so you'll know what to expect, the stuff can be REALLY brittle.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted April 17, 2015 Author Share Posted April 17, 2015 (edited) I'll definitely do that.Just a little side notes measured my long piece of rail and the rail itself is about 1"x2 3/8" and it's about 4" tall and about 16" long. Edited April 17, 2015 by M Cochran Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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