/Y- Blacksmithing Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 so... I was given a delta 1 x 42 belt/disk sander...however I have no clue what type of belt I need to get for it... Any recommendations? I'm just starting as a smith but I want to make sure I'm not half way doing this... Making knives, and hawks primarily for gifts any advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 reading would be a good start. there is an entire section with information just to get going. welcome to IFI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SJS Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 For the cookies left out on the lower shelf... A 1x42 is handy, but not the most efficient thing for a blacksmith/bladesmith. That being said, it was free, it works until you can buy, or build something better. But you will burn through the belts, and you are very limited in the types of belts available, mainly aluminum oxide belts which work better on wood than on metal. They still cut, but they wear out much more quickly than some of the fancier abrasive that are predominately available in 2x72. 24,36, and 40 grit are your course belts to start your rough grinding. A lot of guys start grinding with a 60 or 80 grit belt, and move up from there. A 1x42 generally doesn't have much bite and is easy to bog down. I would rough in with a right angle grinder, and try to use the 1x42 for "finish" grinding and a little sharpening of tools with 120, 220, 320, and 400. Buy a selection of belts and experiment. To get the most out of your belts, hot wire brush anything forged that you want to grind on, and then wire brush again cold, and when in doubt rough in with the right angle grinder. Scale is harder than AO if I remember correctly ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockstar.esq Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 One tip with the angle grinder, get the arbor so you can use the sandpaper disks on it. They stay flat as they wear and you can get them in 60 grit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob Nothstine Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 You might want to check out Kingspor's they sell belts in variety packs and leather belts. I have not tried the leather belt yet but a friend says they are great for re-sharpening tools. I have used my Kalamazoo 1 x 42 for sharpening tools and it works great. Taking large amounts of material off, it's a slow go. http://www.woodworkingshop.com/abrasive-belts/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianinsa Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 (edited) Your profile doesn't give your location, there are a number of belt manufacturers that will make up belts to order, you may only need to buy 10. Based on your machine and use they can give you excellent advice. Personality I would avoid Klingspor as their business practices of lateral collusion in the marketing and pricing of product is anti-competitive and thus should be avoided if at all possible, sadly despite their repulsive practices they make a resonable product! Edited March 26, 2015 by ianinsa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phabib Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 I have had custom belts made by Industrial Abrasives in PA. Good quality, good prices, and quick delivery. They're family owned and on the 3rd generation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Varangian Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 I, like the originator of this post, am a green pea at the forge and knife-making. I have made several RR spike knives to a rough finish, but am now looking at taking the next step to finishing them. I have read that the best way is via belt sander, but several sites have mentioned that there is a vast difference in belt sanders for wood vs. metals. I am doing this on a budget (well, frankly, I'm just a miser) and don't want to spend hundreds on a sander. SO I have a few questions to throw out: 1.) How can I tell sanders designed for wood versus metal? 2.) Does anyone have one they can recommend as a decent unit that won't break the bank? 3.) Is there any merit to the combination unit with the side disc? Is that a valuable feature, or something I could just as easily skip? 4.) Lastly, for a benchtop unit, what do you feel is the best belt size for knifing? By the way, I am also located in SW MN, in case "/Y" happens to see this. /Y wont see it, according to the site logs, he has not returned since posting this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John McPherson Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 1.) Belt sanders are for wood, belt grinders are for metal. Sanders are cheap and easily available at big box stores. Good for finishing wood handles and maybe sheaths. Wrong speeds, wrong belts available for metal. Grinders are their scary big brother on steroids, only sold by industrial tool dealers, or home made by skinflints like blacksmiths and knifemakers. (Google "Clontz grinder", Ray Clontz also invented the tire hammer.) 2.) Grizzly sells an acceptable unit for a beginner or hobbyist. Bader, Burr King and Beaumont will be among the $$$ pro units. 3.) No. See #1 4.) 2" x 72" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Most commercially available knife grinders are not hundreds of dollars, they are thousands. They can be built at home for less if you pay attention and take your time, which sadly too many refuse to do these days. a 1 x 42 will get you by for a while, but as stated before not many options for belt types. Belts are bailable for metal. just not a lot of options and not at the local hardware store. See the knife making classes reference section for suppliers. If you really want details about this I suggest looking at the knife making classes, they are tagged to subject, sort of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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