JaredM Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 Hello Everyone, Before ya'll ask, I have read through most of the blue prints, my first project isn't going to be a knife, and I'm not anywhere close to getting started. I am pretty experienced in welding with SMAW and GMAW and I feel like I'm pretty handy in woodworking and carpentry. I'm a shop teacher by profession, so I feel pretty comfortable in shop settings. I do have one question though, can I use the same clay mixture that Tim Lively uses in his charcoal forge for a propane forge? Maybe even one of those ammunition can forges. I think the problem might be getting the clay to stick to the top. I'm not looking for a real big forge at all. I know once I do get started, I will get ambitious and try something I can't handle and get frustrated. So I really want to start small. I really like the beam hooks and would like to make them for gifts, also the coat hangers that can be screwed into the wall. I'm not going to ask a million different questions right now. I'm reading everything I can get my hands on, and I'm going to read all that again. Sorry to be so chatty, really like being on here and learning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candidquality Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 Welcome to the group. We're not really that bad about telling you what to do (i hope). I think it's more of a strong recommendation. You've enough experience under your belt to know your limits and be safe. Good luck and do feel free to ask questions. Don't forget the search button at the top of the page though, you might just find out it's already been answered and will save you waiting for a reply. Not familiar with Tim's clay, but clay is pretty easy to shape as long as it's not too wet. Shouldn't be much problem with that span. hooks: All made with 1/4 inch stock. Scroll on the left makes it appear heavier than it is, unbalanced. Corner is not squared. Center is a better scroll for the size stock. Right, is the third scroll I made, Took the round stock, squared it and then scrolled and bent on the 45. A quick twist, and then flatten the top and punch for a screw. And no I would not call any of these great examples(other than mistakes). Simply tinkering around while curing out the new forge. So don't stress out if it's not exactly what you pictured. Take your time, take as many heats as you need to and stop hitting your metal before it stops glowing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaredM Posted November 15, 2007 Author Share Posted November 15, 2007 No, everyone here is very helpful in their responses, I apologize for coming across so blunt. I have a 7 week old daughter, so I'm tired. I noticed that alot of first posts have started with "how do I get started", or "I need to know everything right now". I don't expect to learn how to forge by asking questions on the internet, without some form of prior knowledge. I read alot, so I will search through the blueprints again to see if I can find the ammo can forge. The problem is I don't have a way of getting any kind of refractory, so I wanted to try the clay. I did find a place to get some, but it is on the far side of San Antonio, and I don't have the time to chase the parts down. I can't even find fireplace mortar, or fire bricks within a 50 mile radius, much less kao wool. I'll keep looking. Thanks for your help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 Look at the 55 Forge (BP0133) and modifications in the Blueprints. It should take only a couple of hours to build, no clay, and you should have a fire going shortly thereafter. They were designed to be a starter forge, materials easily available, quick to make, and work. While you use the 55 Forge and are getting in some hammer time, you can look for or build the forge of your choice. No one said you could not have 2 forges. (grin) Go to IForgeIron.com and click on *Getting Started*. It will offer many references that you may have overlooked. One reference may give you several more references, and it may take a while to chase them all down. It is usually worth the effort. IForgeIron can be a labyrinth of information at times. Go to the forum, to the bottom of the page and click on archives. It should give you a index tree of the forum sections. Click on the section you interested in and it will give you a listing of 250 entries per page AND look for page 2, 3, 4, etc. These are threads or questions that have been ask before with all the answers to that question in one place. (Pack a cold drink and a lunch if you go this route). Welcome to IForgeIron. Enjoy your visit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candidquality Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 Easiest place to find refractory is normally a pottery supply. Though probably not the least expensive. You can always order it online, but I personally hate waiting and paying for high shipping charges. what's your time worth? I found a box on clearance at northern tool (harbour freight clone) for $8. Harder will hold up to beating, but is also a massive heat sink, taking longer to heat up to working temp. Softer is a better insulator and you can be up to heat within a minute or two, but the first time you use flux you'll watch it melt into a puddle. Some have settled for a piece of corrugated tin in a half moon shape with brick on the bottom and koawool in the roof. it doesn't have to be fancy at all. Make it cheap and simple and you won't have any reservations about tearing it apart and building a better moustrap when you know your needs better. Best to just get started with something that will definitely work so you don't get frustrated that you can't get it hot enough. Btw, congratulations on your new one. You'll be tired the rest of your life, so get used to it it's well worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blacksmith Jim Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 Jared, I have a 5 week old son, so I know that tired feeling! Welcome aboard. Sounds like you have a good back ground for getting setup, and a good attitude. The folks around here are very knowledgeable. I think you will enjoy your stay Be sure to post fun pictures of your progress! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drogo Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 as far as the ammo can forge refractory is concerened.......I use "vulcanite" brand refractory clay......any decent boiler supply house should have something similar for relining boilers and such.......if you are building an ammo can forge and need some advise just ask........and if you need some Vulcanite I can give you some all you have to pay is shipping. Drogo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbob Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 Jared, Im not sure if the Tim Lively would work with propane..on a second note I've been reading about wood fired Pizza ovens, the reason I bring this up is they are taking smashed fire bricks and mixing with sand a cement to line the inside of the oven I would think you could do the same thing for a forge. the last time I was at the builder supply they gave me all the broken fire bricks as they can't sell them . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaredM Posted November 16, 2007 Author Share Posted November 16, 2007 Thanks for the help folks, getting time to scrounge up the materials is going to be the key. I do travel into San Antonio quite a bit, and I found that the Northern in San Antonio carries the fire brick that Candid was talking about. I may go with that and build a steel frame to hold the brick. Thanks for all the help. By the way, one of the first projects I make after my hangers is a cold chisel. I don't have one, and I have really needed one. I hate having to drag out the oxy/ace to make a small cut, when a cold chisel and a couple of good hits would take care of it. Or grinding it apart. To loud with a new baby that has a hard enough time sleeping when it is quiet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.S.T. Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 Jared Have you checked out Balcons Forge yet? It is the local Blacksmithing group. Our members range from San Antonio to Marble Falls with the majority in Austin. Balcones Forge The next is Saturday the 24 at Pioneer Farms in Austin your welcome to come out if you can make it . We will be demonstrating to the public would be a good chance for you to get some forge time in. I live in Converse wich is on the north side of San Antonio. Drop me a line if I can be of any help. Check out the newsletter on the web site for more info on meeting. Aaron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 Grind an edge on a piece of leaf spring. Makes a serviceable cold chisel. You have the ox/ac so use it for heat. Cut a piece of leaf sprig or coil spring to the needed length, cut an angle on the edge, grind to finish, and let air cool. If needed heat the end, harden and temper. Heat is heat and makes no matter what the source, Acetylene, propane, coal, charcoal, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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