Fire Extinguishers

[Ed Thomas]

I always keep a few of those small household extinguishers around the shop. But I'd really like to install some that are effective and appropriate for the work we do as blacksmiths in a fair-sized shop. Any thoughts :?:

[Strine]

One thing about all extiguishers Ed is that they need a regular check by an authorised person. If you've had one for a while it's probably either due for a check or is verbotun to own on account of it being harmful to the environment. My fireman mate came into my shed a while back and just took my extinguisher :shock: He could have replaced it :cry:

[ThomasPowers]

I've alwayls like the CO2 ABC extinguishers, just remember if pointing them at a flaming oil quench tank *don't* splash the flaming oil!

Thomas

[HWooldridge]

I have two ABC types that will probably expire this year but the gauges show they are still good. I really don't have much that can catch fire beyond the coal box and my propane tanks because I have a steel building but it is good to have an extinguisher around. About ten years ago in the middle of summer, I was working in the shop and smelled smoke from outside. I ran out the door and saw part of the field was on fire. It was already too big for an extinguisher but I jumped on the tractor, which fortunately had the shredder mounted and cut a break around the blaze. It burned itself out and no one was the worse for wear. Near as I could tell, it started from a piece of glass lying in the field that got some dry grass going. Any out of control fire can move very rapidly so it pays to have some insurance (both physical and monetary protection).

[Woody]

A little about fire extinguishers. The rating is not the weight of the fire extinguishing media in the extinguisher. The rating is the amount of fire killing capacity of the particular extinguisher. Read the label closely, most 2 1/2 lb dry chemical extinguishers while having an ABC rating usually have something like a 2 A, 10 B,C rating. This means that while they are quite effective on a flammable liquid or electrical fire, they have considerably less fire killing capacity when used on a fire of wood or paper. Everyone should do a quick assessment of their shop, determine the nature of the fire hazards and select extinguishers appropriate to the hazard. Remember if you decide to fight a fire in your shop, have a clear escape route in case you have more fire than extinguisher. Never let the fire get between you and the door. Call 911 or have someone else do it before you attempt to fight the fire. That way if there is more fire than you can handle, help will already be on the way. Some local codes require that extinguishers be checked by a "qualified" person, others only require that they be checked on a regular basis and the inspection be recorded on a tag attached to the extinguisher. With Dry Chemical Extinguishers it is a good idea to check them monthly and to turn them upside down and give them a good shake. The dry chemical tends to settle and pack in the bottom of the extinguisher over time and if not shaken up periodically, when needed the extinguisher will be less than fully effective if operational at all. Remember that in case of a fire, your first priority is to safe your life and the lives of any others in danger. Property can be replaced, people cannot be.

Woody

[Ed Thomas]

Thanks all. I think I'd still better do a little more research.

[Glenn]

Any Fire extinguisher is a last resort measure. It means your efforts to keep things safe and under control have failed and you are already into the plan B stage.

This is not to say we should not have them, I have 2 in the shop. It is to say that we all need to walk through our shop area and look at it as if we were an OSHA inspector wanting to get nasty. Make a list of the problems, a detailed list. Then start at the top and fix things one item at a time as you have time. It will take a while to complete the list, but it will be easier and safer to work in the area when you finish.

Let me start by pointing out that can of gasoline for the lawn mower. Is it within 25 feet of where you do any grinding? Sparks can go that far from the grinder. With the cost of gas at over $3.00 a gallon, you may want to move the can of gas to a safer location, and protect your investment. :?

[Ed Thomas]

So Glen... what are you using for fire extinguishers?

That's what I'm asking here. I do try to be safe.

I think I'd have the most peace of mind with a fire hydrant and charged 3" hose right there where alll I have to do is grab the nozzle, flip the bail and hang on.

Next to that... what is a good fire extinguisher for the type of work we do?

Just asking that question makes me think about the number and where to put them, too. Hmmm....

[Rich Hale]

The extinguisher you need not only has to be matched to the size of the fire, but what is actually burning. Normal combustibles like paper wood etc are what is called class A fires. If your read the labels almost all fire extinguisher will put out class A fires. Also remember that water is really good for class a fires. and does not fill the air with dry powder that can be harmfull to your lungs. Slack tub should be kept full and if not small enough to lift and splash,,,should have a small pail really close dedicated to that task. Electical fires..like from a motor call for a different agent,,unless you unplug them and likely what is burning can be handled by water. Do not even think about water for liquid fires. That is when your preplanning for a good extinguisher will pay off,, direct at the base of the flames from a distance so you do not splash and move in if you need to. Again what was said earlier. If you attack the fire and it gets away from you,,,the finest sound in the world is sirens, unless you forgot to call them.

[Glenn]

Put the fire extinguisher next to the exit. This will put you at the exit door so you can decide to fight or flee from the best vantage point - the door. When all exits are covered with extinguishers, put one on the work table in the middle of the room.

My extinguishers are dry powder units, small enough in weight for most anyone to operate them. One is at the work table and one at the exit door. I would like to have CO2, or Halon gas extinguishers because of the clean up afterward.

At the outside forge, there is a 20 gallon slack tub and a pressurized garden hose. Both have been used on occation to put out small fires. :oops:

[mike-hr]

When I'm doing off-site fabricating, I keep a big abc extinguisher at an arm's reach. Also, a 5 gallon bucket of water with a big gunny sack (burlap potato bag) soaking. The wet sack does good at pre-wetting an area, also a good first defense of batting down small grass fires. Never had to use extinguisher for anything but gasoline fires yet...

[ThomasPowers]

I've picked up several old out of spec CO2 extinguishers to be cut into bells and dishing forms. I found it a lot of fun to "practice" using them as I run the charge out to make them safe to cut---why I like plain CO2, no nasty, sometimes toxic, powders to mess with...

Had the kids try them out too so if they had to rescue *me* they wouldn't be surprised when they tried to use one for real.

Thomas

[SGensh]

Ed, In my shop I have three dry chemical extinguishers rated 10A 80BC which are hung on wall brackets. (The brackets are actually required to make the rating- go figure!). These are located at the forge area exit, just outside my office door, and near the main exit door. In addition I have a smaller dry chemical unit mounted on my oxy acetylene cart as required by the state. These units are inspected anually as I need to keep them up to date for the annual fire and hazard inspection I'm subject to as a "life hazard use" site here in New Jersey. (I get to pay a fee for that service of course.) I asked the inspector this year if there was any more suitable equpment I should be using and he had no other suggestions other than saying as others have to call it in before fighting a fire. I also always keep some old detergent bottles filled with water near my welding table and in the forge area. If something seems to be smoldering a quick squirt will usually take care of it without any big mess. The company who services my extinguishers recommends the Amerox brand as being reliable and easily serviced as well as being made domestically. I just had both my annual extinguisher inspection and my state inspection. The fire extinguisher service company only charged $50 for onsite service- a relatively small amount for peace of mind.

[ThomasPowers]

One other thing about fire extinguishers; *always* have one front and center at your demo set up---I've learned that you can do absolutely crazy things with fire at demos and if the "authorities" see a proper fire extinguisher properly displayed then they think "He knows what he's doing and is *safe*"

Of course I haven't used one at a demo in 20+ years never had anything that the slack tub or a booted foot couldn't deal with; but not having hassels from the powers that be is worth all the hauling and set up trouble!

Thomas---and someday it may come in handy...

[Ten Hammers]

I keep two 10# ABC extinguishers in the shop and a small abc in the trailer. The Fire Chief and crew have been to the shop for an evening of forge demo and talk about whats what and where's where inside. We're a small community and I know most of these fellas (some since diapers). In the days I was a medic I responded to many accidents and fires with these folks. They should all know what to look for inside my shop ( Good Lord forbid) if an unplanned fire happens. I've got a firefighter on my street. The community is so accustomed to seeing forge smoke that I really hope someone notices an unplanned fire and reports it. Fire safety is of course the most important thing. Bottles are close to the door, etc and hope I've got things proper before shutdown (which I have a strict list of things to do before shutdown). Extinguisher at a demo is of course good idea. Be well folks and be safe.