RKM556 Posted April 30, 2014 Share Posted April 30, 2014 Hey ya'll! If you remember, I was really confused about why my previously annealed 5160 blade was not cooperating with me when I tried to drill some holes in it. Well, after annealing and learning a ton of awesome info from you guys, I got the holes drilled. I got a bigger problem this time I think though. Same blade, I sent it to Peter's heat treat cause it's a big boy blade and got it back this afternoon. For the very last step, I was making sure my bevels were very straight at the ricasso. However, I had a severe mishap. I cut into the blade much much further than I meant to. Like, way. I evened out to opposite side with the same amount of cut in, and it turns out the groove I cut was nearly .1 inches deep (.05 inches on either side of the blade.) This blade has some cash put into it. Like 80 bucks. (that's a lot for me.) Since this is a giant blade, basically a sword, I wanted to know if you guys think this blade is toast. The entire blade is heat treated to a spring temper. When I force the blade to bend, it does not bend any sharper at the point on the ricasso than any other point, but the bend spreads evenly and smoothly along the blade. If there is any way to save this blade, please let me know. It has been many hours and a bit of money. The calipers point to the exact spot on the blade where I made the mistake, and the other picture is of the mistake, (which, if savable, will be very cleaned up) If I need to scrap it, thats always an option. Just throwing that out there. Would rather have it scarpped than to be playing around with a blade that could snap at that weak point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted April 30, 2014 Share Posted April 30, 2014 I would not sell it, keep it as a wall hanger, it is weak there and can break if used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RKM556 Posted April 30, 2014 Author Share Posted April 30, 2014 I think you're right. I guess I will use it as a showpiece then. Also, sorry whoever had to move my post to a different area. Didn't mean to trouble you! I am use to it :) no problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearhartironwerks Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 My suggestion is to hang it on the wall as a remembrance of work past. History. Steve's correct. Start over, and guaranteed the next one will be better. And, the one after that will be even better. It's simply a matter of challenging yourself to improve. Skill sets come from failure. John PS: You're in the right place as we all can relate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 In a hidden pocket of a canvas bag of Items I have forged is the remains of a blade. An elegant bowie forged from buggy spring as a gift for my SiL who does single action shooting. Unfortunately when I quenched it in warm oil it didn't harden as much as I had hoped and so I rolled the dice and quenched it in water, (actually brine) as many of the earlier steels were water quench. In the quench tank I heard/felt the dreaded *tink* and the elegant bowie blade came out in 3 separate pieces. This gets drug out when I'm talking to new folks who have rather odd ideas about quenching often wanting to take shortcuts---or wanting to use scrap metal for blades, (I do it myself at times; but I know the risks I am taking and how to mitigate them a bit!---the next buggy bowie is going to get Parks 50! not oil, urine or blood...or worm water, radish juice...."Sources for the History of the Science of Steel" has a renaissance list of suggested quenchants that are a bit odd to say the least! Most of them I have tried did not have the effects claimed for them either.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Keyes Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 So how thick is the blade at the thinnest spot? It still looks pretty beefy to me. I'd bet you could grind down to it and still have enough thickness for the blade to work and not be floppy. Alternatively, you could shorten it and grind a stick tang (set the shoulders right where you made the error) and still have a blade with nearly the same profile. Just my .02 Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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