Does anyone know what steel safes are usually made from?

My son gave me a safe that came from an old store he was remodeling. He was able to open part of it by ruining many sawzall blades. The strongbox is still closed. He didn't have a oxy-acetylene so he gave it to me. I'd like to burn it open, but I don't know if it's worthwhile as it's probably empty and I don't know if the steel is worth the effort. 

Call a professional lock and safe guy. They can open most of those safes IF you can prove you are the owner or that you have legal ownership of the safe.

 

if this is one of those decent sized drop safes used for businesses, these  safes can cost some serious money. Even if there is nothing in it, if it's in decent shape, you can probably make some money selling it used if you don't destroy it 1st. A lot of these lock and safe guys sell used safes. He may make you a deal on it if you can prove your son has the right to it. He may be willing to open the safe for you to check the contents, if you give or sell him the safe cheap.

Thanks DSW,

Unfortunately part of the safe has already been opened, the bottom, that was empty. Above that is a strong box that was inside the main door. I can see the bottom of it, but not where it opens.

If you just want to look inside, you can often rent those little fiber optic cameras for looking in walls as such fairly inexpensively today. I bought one years ago for looking in walls trying to locate leaks in baths and tub areas before I had to take down a wall. All you need is a 5/8" hole or larger to get the camera in.

 

Depending on how much damage was done when they opened it, it might still have a value to a lock guy, but I doubt it will bring you much at this point. Those top and bottom drop safes can be pretty pricy. I was told years ago what a used one had cost the company I was doing a remodel for and I was astounded at the price even for a used one in fair shape.

 

 

Back then I'd been told that a bunch of these sorts of safes were built out of a "mixed" type of steel. The hardened steel exterior was dotted throughout with a 2nd metal that was designed to be difficult to cut with a torch. The steel would cut fine until you hit one of those pockets and then the torch would want to pop and not stay lit because the 2nd metal did not cut with OA well. Today with the prevalence of plasma that will cut just about anything conductive that's metal, they may not be going thru all that any more.

 

If you know someone on the rescue squad that has access to an Arcair Slice torch or Brocco exothermic torch, those will cut thru absolutely EVERYTHING! Steel, brass, alum, iron, wood, concrete, brick, you name it....  The torch and rods are not cheap though. The fire guys might enjoy the chance to "play" however and you would get the unit opened cheap or free.

The trick is not to destroy the value of the contents with the opening method. There are steel boxes that are hard to pick or open (like gun safes), then there are those designed to get important papers thru a fire (if somewhat damp and wrinkled), and then there are ones for art collectors that are designed to keep the contents both cool and dry. The more you want it to do, the more it costs.

 

If you have slightly charred or water damaged paper money, deeds, stock certificates, etc., then you can prove existence and get copies or replacements. If all you have is ashes............. :(

 

If you have gotten thru the outer layers and there is no value left in the carcass, you can cut the bottom of the upper box out with an abrasive wheel. A diamond tile cutting blade on an angle grinder works a treat on most metals.

 

A friend of mine got out of the higher end of the jewelry business to concentrate on knives. He donated his safe to the local small town PD as an evidence locker, and got a nice tax write-off. The guys that came to move it put down double layers of plywood and brought in a studly hand truck. They took one look and said "Yeah, I've dropped safes thru better floors than this." :blink:

endoscopes / borescopes can be bought for about $15 on ebay from at least 1 seller in china, they plug into a USB port on your laptop, will need a hole of at least 3/8"

In the title are you sure of the spelling? Or should that read Steal?

Might be able to offer some help if you post some pics.  I spent quite a few years as a lock and safe tech.

Be careful of the insulation between the layers.  Many times it was an asbestos/concrete mix for weight and insulating value.  You do not want to be breathing in the dust.  Wetting it down will reduce the airborne dust.  Because of the possible asbestos, none of my local scrapyards will take any safe anymore.  They will only take the metal components if the safe is completely dismantled.

I ran across an antique safe once that had alternating plates of tool steel and cast iron to discourage drilling and torching and vials of tear gas to further discourage misbehavior.

Most of the newer gun type safes use layers of drywall for the insulation along with an expanding gasket around the door opening.  It was certainly interesting that although they're supposedly rated for so many degrees for so many minutes - lots of times the contents get coated in soot from the fire department hosing everything down. The heat resistant gasket isn't waterproof and the water resistant gaskets aren't heat proof.

 

As for the metal's I don't know specifics but some of them have a layer of punched steel with ball bearings placed around the lock mechanism to ensure that you break drill bits when they catch and snag. That plate was also tied to a spring loaded "re-locker" which prevented the door from opening even if the correct combination/ key was entered.

 

Still - you read about folks breaking into safes all the time.

As Jamie Hyneman says  "When all else fails... C4!"  LOL