Jacob Nothstine Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Picked up a Hot cut hardy this past weekend, read that you should use a copper or brass mallet. I don't have a copper or brass mallet, but I do have a lead hammer would this be a good hammer for hot cuts or is it to soft? Thanks, Jacob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njanvilman Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Lead hammers are too soft to use, especially with red hot steel. It will deform very quickly and might even melt with contact. If you can get a piece of copper or brass rod big enough to use, it is easy to drill out a hole for a handle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 I would suggest to never cut all the way off, so you don't need a soft hammer. Cutting all the way off can be dangerous just like cutting a piece off all the way on the face of an anvil or a cutting plate. The piece that is being cut off can fly away. Cutting to the center will not allow the loose piece to fly. It will fall to the ground if you cut all the way. I also would recommend not hardening a hot cut so it doesn't damage your hammer face if you hit the hardy. It will only damage the hot cut. If you have a hardened hot cut, both your hammer and hot cut will get damaged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 So I know that you get very nice hot cuts Brian... I assume that you finish the cuts by breaking off the small connecting center after the piece cools? I think Jacob might need this info as well. Could you clarify this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 I don't wait till it cools. I just break it off while it's still attached, so I don't have to bend over and pick it up. If I'm doing several pieces of the same thing and I get to the point where I need to cut off, I will tap the cut off piece and drop it on my anvil or the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob Nothstine Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 I'm just starting out, I have been working on nails. The problem I'm having is I'm hitting to soft when cutting, I was also using a hardy cut with a tip that was round and not sharp. So by the time I cut and twist the nail to break it off it's lost it's yellow and turns black. So it was hard to form a nice looking nail head. Pick up a new hardy cut this weekend that is sharp going to attempted some more nail soon. I will have to pick up a brass hammer, have one for my hand planes but the handle is short. Thanks, Jacob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 It is best not to cut off all the way when making nails, so you can bend the piece and point the tapered side up to heat the head side and not risk burning your sharp end. You don't need tongs either nor do you risk losing it in the fire. Just ring it off in your nail header. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grafvitnir Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 If you don't mind Brian :) I'm including two of your videos where you elaborate on this. On minute 18:00 of the tong forging video Brian cuts to center with an explanation. And the other one is an explanation of the same in clay Hope it helps. Rubén Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacob Nothstine Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Brian, Thanks for the information. Using clay as and example is a great idea for teaching, you can really see what is happening when you cut it, and form shapes. Looked you up on youtube I'm going to have hours of video to watch. :) Thanks, Jacob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Thank Ruben, and you're welcome Jacob! You won't be spending hours watching my videos since most are less than 10 minutes long. You should watch some of Alec Steele's, Daniel Lea's, and Dave Custer's videos also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 I use a jackhammer bit hardy; probably 1050 and easy to sharpen after students hit it: too hard, too long, or with the hammer angled so it goes past the piece, etc. I like to have them use a soft hammer on the anvil; but a hard one on the hardy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockstar.esq Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Just thought I'd mention that a brass headed hammer can and will spall off chunks if it's used on hard surfaces. I thought it'd be the way to go as well but if you really think about it, it's generally smoother to other operations to work your way towards the center by rotating stock over the hardie. That keeps the cutting edge in the center of the stock and not against the hammer face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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