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I Forge Iron

Forklift Tine "anvil"


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I scored part of a broken forklift tine at work this week. so after a few hours of tinkering and grinding i think i have an almost proper setup. my plan is to find someone who can taper the steel cylinder on a lathe and drill a pritchel hole and figure out how to drill a hardy, or i may get someone to weld a piece of square tubing to the tine. the cylinder is held on by 2 pieces of rebar driven into the anvil stand.

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I my plan is to find someone who can taper the steel cylinder

 

I just posted the thread on my homemade anvil. At minute 3 of the video you can see how I forged the horn. You can do the same with a couple of friends. '?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>>

 

 and drill a pritchel hole and figure out how to drill a hardy,

 

This is something you can do as well. You can get a bit of thick stock (50 mm or so) and drill one or several pritchel holes (different dimmensions) and you can drift a hardy hole, like in these videos

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You don't need a pritchel hole if you use a bolster plate which is a piece of plate with different size holes drilled in it to support the work while you punch it.

 

A hardy hole is handy but you can either use a post vise to hold it (already mentioned) or make bottom tools that will lay on the anvil face. You can use a hot cut instead of a hardy a cutting plate or saddle is all that requires. The only bottom tool properly called a hardy is a hot or cold cut off chisel bottom tool. Okay maybe a bottom butcher is a hardy, I don't know that one but I'll happily make up something plausible if you wish. At any rate, there are a number of perfectly good ways to hold bottom tools without needig a hardy hole.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

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My reason for the pritchel hole is for something to drift through and for a hold down. I dont have a vice yet I'm hoping for a nice flea market find this summer. Any ideas on a good way to keep the tine from bouncing around? I was thinking of using some rebar stakes like what I used for the cylinder.

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