Any tips for welding h13  punches and drifts to steel 1" bolts that I'm going to use for my flypress mounts to go into the ram.

 

Was going to TIG it but also have stick and mig capabilities if those work better somehow. What type of filler rod and pre/post heat are recommended?

 

It has also been recommended to braze or silver solider and not weld at all?

 

Curious to here what people here have actually done and works and what didn't work.

 

Thanks,

 

dw

 

Tack weld together cold.

Heat red/yellow in forge, mig weld while hot with standard wire.

Let cool.

To harden heat back up to yellow and cool in air or in front of fan.

Test that hardening took place with a file. I find I need to cut through a thin soft surface to get to hard steel.

To temper heat again to the faintest red then air cool.

I usually only pre heat to 500F+  normally no colour.  This way I can HT either before or after welding.  Stick or mig but I don't have tig.

Dovetail and set screw.... Too much messin around with preheat, interpass temp control, post heat-treatment, filter metal match, etc....

But, if you really want to weld the 2 materials together, preheat the H13 to approximately 350°F, heat the mild steel with torch to drive off the moisture, tack, weld, and in something to cool down slowly (roughly 50°F per hour). If SMAW, use good DRY E-7018, GMAW/GTAW, use ER70S-6 or ER80S-D2. Preheating in the oven works great. When, after welding, put back in the oven and turn it off. Let it set overnight.

-Hillbilly

Greetings DW,

 

Why weld at all.... It is easy to make up a 1in press adaptor for all your punches and drifts.... A friend of mind sells them on EB...  I have made several . A Fancy one in the press and others behind...  I hope this helps ... Been Flypressing for years and have lots of tooling...

 

Press on and make beautiful things

Jim

I have 1"& .75" round adaptors and 1" x2" rectangular adaptors, some from vapre mac. I also have a box of h13 drops that are various sizes that I've successfully welded to 1" hex bolts using the method Andrew T suggested above. Works great so far. I put those bolts with the welded bits in the tool holders.

http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/38098-dereks-flypress-tooling/

Hex head bolts are NOT mild steel. FYI

 

Frosty The Lucky.

Hex head bolts are NOT mild steel. FYI
 
Frosty The Lucky.

Frosty....Hex head bolts can be manufactured from any class of material that the
end user needs to suit their intended application. One can readily purchase hex head
bolts in a wide variety of flavors,ie. plastic,poly,aluminum,stainless etc.......FYI

Jim ,Derek ,

That's some fine looking tooling you guys have there !

Greetings Derek,

 

Looks like we are on the same page... I did not understand what you were doing.... You got the same answer that I would give from Andrew...   I always like to look at others fly press tooling...  Thanx

 

Forge on and make beautiful things

Jim

Hex head bolts are NOT mild steel. FYI

 

Frosty The Lucky.

These are the lowest grade non coated bolts. What do you recon they are made of?  It sure feels and sparks like lo carbon.

I followed Andrew recommendations (except) I TIG'd them. They are seeming to be holding up well. I used a slight breeze of compressed air to harden a few of the shapes that didn't get hard the first time in still air to a file test. 

I tig h13 and most anything else cold with stainless rod. Most press tooling welds do not take that much abuse, it's all in line. Haven't had a failure yet, and one would only take minutes to fix. Cool tools.

No marks or two marks ( Grade 2)  on the head means they are soft/ low carbon bolts

Thanks Larry, what i'd always though.