Iron Jewerly

[Kilroy]

I've only recently started to make jewerly, before this I've mostly been making more utilitarian objects (knives, hooks, forks, pokers, ect). Back to the point, I've been tasked by my family, mostly my sister and mother with making jewelry for them. The problem is that I've had trouble finding designs 99% of the things I've found have been cheaply made wares.

 

I was wondering if you good people could help me find some nice designs or at some critique? I only have the first three bracelets I've made on hand, the rest are at the shop.

[Geoff Keyes]

I find that it's a matter of scale (size, not the crusty stuff on the surface).  What is a perfectly nice mass in silver, is clunky in iron.  Go lighter, go thinner, that is what I find works.

 

Geoff

[GNJC]

I started out with precious metals and moved 'up' to iron and steel much later. I've made similar designs in steel and silver and it's the feel and look of the metal not the mass (silver is much heavier per unit) that makes the difference to a given piece, it sounds different too.
 
Iron once had a value greater than gold and was used for jewellery back then... the start of the iron age. Take a squint at some of pieces from that era, a few have survived, and a look at their predecessors in bronze and copper - those were the 'fashionable' designs copied in iron.
 
There were iron items made to compensate Germans who donated gold to their First World War effort, but I think they were cast rather than forged.

[ThomasPowers]

Are you forging stainless for your bracelets?  Strongly suggest it if you want people to wear it!

 

As for "gold for iron" in germany I've run across a reference to it from the days of Napoleon I where quite intricate iron jewelry was made in iron to "trade" for gold jewelry.

 

As mentioned some celtic jewelry even through the viking era translates well into steel.

[knots]

The September 1980 Smithsonisan Magazine cover had pictures of some early Viking iron jewelry.  I searched to see if I could find an archive of the referenced Smithsonian issue is available on line, but without success.  Not to worry though since the article inside fearured only items made gold.   I suggest that you research other historic sources as well.  African sources are a good place to look since the african iron tradition is strong.  

 

You will notice that the Vikings braided steel, producing fine detail that is very attractive .  With braids being as tight as these I am uncertain if the braiding was made worked hot or cold.  Never tried this myself. I suppose that low carbon annealed material could be worked cold if the gauge were right.  Try reinforcing tie wire .   

 

You will also notice that the bracelets detail includes some very tight twists.  These probably are not as tight as they appear.  If you forge the bracelet stock into an octigan instead of a square cross section the twist will appear twice as tight as square would.

 

It also appears that the Vikings used reverse twists as a decorative theme.  Reverse twists can be very decorative.  

 

Good Luck and Happy Forging

 

 

[ThomasPowers]

Those were silver IIRC.

 

and they would have used wrought iron not steel.

[Kilroy]

Thanks for the advice, I might have something to show you guys later.

[Neil Blythin]

Gary Huston has a video on YouTube (titled 'decorative twist'), that produces a twist that looks a lot like those Viking bracelets shown on the cover of that Smithsonian issue.

I seem to recall he'd twisted thin round stock together (he had used welding rod with the flux knocked off). A number of these twisted (pairs?) were bundled together and then twisted. The result looks something like a braid.

I haven't tried it, but as soon as I saw those bracelets that video popped into my head as one of those 'I've seen that before' types of things. Would likely make nice jewellery.

[Kilroy]

I came up with an idea for a necklace, but as you can see I'm still a bit rough. I've never had much luck in making leaves, I should probably practice more.

[John B]

Gary Huston has a video on YouTube (titled 'decorative twist'), that produces a twist that looks a lot like those Viking bracelets shown on the cover of that Smithsonian issue.

I seem to recall he'd twisted thin round stock together (he had used welding rod with the flux knocked off). A number of these twisted (pairs?) were bundled together and then twisted. The result looks something like a braid.

I haven't tried it, but as soon as I saw those bracelets that video popped into my head as one of those 'I've seen that before' types of things. Would likely make nice jewellery.

 

Not the video, but something like this I suspect.

 

 

or variations on the same method

 

     

 

Same thing, just twisted differently these were made from 5mm (3/16") diameter rods,

 

First take two bars, (or bend one back on itself to lay side by side) tack the end(s) together and twist evenly, count the number of twists.

 

 

Repeat for three or four sets, depending on thickness required of finished item, in this case four sets

 

 

Place together and forge weld ends together to give one solid piece, Illustration has a squat ball welded on ready to be joined to a poker/fork/ladle/ or any other item requiring a handle.

 

 

The whole assembly is then heated up and twisted

 

In these two the twists are the same direction as the original twists, one just being tighter than the other, they can be tightened more to make the effect like corn on the cob.

 

  and tighter 

 

However if you reverse the direction of the original twist, the whole opens up and gives this

 

 

This gives a nice flexible feeling handle that keeps cool and is comfortable to hold, and it is a method that can be used for many applications.

[Frank Turley]

Living in the Southwest, I see lots of Native American silver jewelry. Some of the bracelets have a simple cross-section that is attractive. For example a triangular section can be obtained by running the work through a vee swage. A uniform trapezoidal section can be forged and cold finished. A trapezoid on top can be gradually forged into a square section either side and then changed to a flat leading to the bracelet opening.

 

Sayings and Cornpone

A metal sculptor shared this with me. "We are design prejudiced. We tend to think of iron as heavy, hard, cold, and strong. If you, as a designer, could make something of iron that is light, soft appearing, warm appearing, and delicate, you'll be getting somewhere in the art world."