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I Forge Iron

Advice Wanted: Drawing 1.25" axle...


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As I said the stand is a bit light for general forging but I can stake it down, the anvils is firmly clamped to the stand. On the truck I don't have any problems (rubber feet on large washers) I have abused this little set up straitening 2" bail spikes with a 14# hammer.
Again stay over the waist for heavy work.

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You may do best with working over the center of the anvil with a round faced hammer.  I only say this because your anvil moves and it sounds like you may not be able fasten it to the floor. If you strike straight down the anvil will move less.  I normally do most of my forging with a power hammer but when I do work like this by hand I draw with a round faced hammer over the horn.  Top (hammer) and bottom (horn) rounded surfaces perpendicular to the stock work best for drawing.  Also get the steel as hot as it will stand without burning it.  A good high yellow heat will aid in drawing making the steel as soft as possible.  As you get closer to final shape you can lower the heat somewhat.  The kinds of steel axles are made from tend to be able to stand a small bit of overheating in my experience.

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Haha no problem, I downloaded it and fixed the orientation. Looks like a pretty serious truck! that truck bed is probably sturdier than my anvil stand, which is only made less sturdy by my attempts to quiet it through softening...

 

 

My normal work position is centre of anvil with round faced hammer.. but that feels inefficient for drawing... I haven't taken another stab at the axle yet, but I will soon enough.. Have been busy and haven't been able to forge.

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Radius guages are helpful for grinding/sanding radii until you get a good eye for them.  And useful even with an experienced eye if the radius has to be accurate.   While a set of Starrett radius guages is nice you can make a one time use one from a piece of poster board.  

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B'ugly (the truck) is a 2002 Isuzu NPR. Cost a heck of a lot less than a new 1 ton. Nice truck, very heavy duty, reliable and economical to run.
Really get a 4# hammer, and draw a blunt point, then forge it back. I'm not as experienced as Brian so I flatten one side, turn 90, flatten the over side, then turn 45, flatten, then 90... I go from round to 4 sided to 8 then 16 then back to 4 and start again. With a high orange or low yellow and a 4# hammer it's not all that bad. Just hit it with determination.
As to the stand, go for sturdy. My traveling anvil sets on 2x stock rivitted to gether, bolted in an angle iron frame w the legs welded to that. The shop anvil has a larger block, (16" high) setting on short stubby legs.
It's clamped down tight.

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If you really want to go for heavy fullering bend a peice of 1" over in the hardy and forge and file it to a half round. Now you can stay off he horn and near the waist

 This is a really good idea. Thanks. I'll get on that.

about the truck, figured it had to be a serious diesel, not a pickup truck.. Surprised it's cheaper though!

 

And about those radius gauges, now that I think about it, I think I've seen a set of nice ones in my uncle's shop... good call.

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