This hammer frame started out as a mechanical hammer that got modified to a tire hammer that got modified to an early style Kinyon. None of them performed well. So when my air cylinder died, I started over with a Parker B834000XXA valve with 3/4 ports and 7.0 CV. All lines/check valve/fittings were 3/4. I had 1/2" UHMW plastic on hand but needed 3/16". No problem, ran it through a wood planer... love it when a plan comes together LOL. Machined the ram for a super smooth finish. Turns out the frame was not aligned with the anvil so I bolted 3/4" plates to the frame so I could tweak the hammer guide before welding. The new valve makes this hammer perform like its on steroids. Ron's new design gives me the control/speed/power to make this an outstanding tool. But as they say, no good deed goes unpunished. The slab in my shop now has several cracks around the hammer and are growing. Really hate the idea of renting a wet saw and pouring a proper foundation.....

good job indeed!  would love to see a vid of it running.

Very nice. What size air cylinder are you using, and how many Blows/minute  are you getting? 3/4 inch hoses are a good idea, but did you hotrod the cylinder to accept them, over the old 1/2" ports?  These Kinyon hammers keep getting better, with every individual mind that attacks them. I love the creativity...

Good looking piece of machinery! I'm happy to see larger lines and ports starting to be applied. The next step up in performance will be replacing every rubber hose possible with steel line.

 

Yes please, a video of it running would be good. I just love seeing hot steel beaten like a red colored step bar.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

I have an older Kinyon style that I absolutely love.

Take the time and finish the job- it will be well worth it. Many years of great service!

Dave

Mike-the cylinder is a new Bosch-Rexroth 2.5" X 10 with 3/8" ports that I got for $65.  I've looked at different makes of cylinders and couldn't find any with 1/2" ports till you get to 3.5" bore.  I could re-tap the top port to 1/2" but can't see the need now.  This was part of my decision to go with 3/4" plumbing. 

 

Here is a link of the hammer drawing a taper from 1/2" bar at 80 PSI and approx. 100 BPM.  Adjusting the stroke and pressure, I was able to get 150-180 BPM. 

 

I think that you inverted the pilots on the spool valve, the tup should be at the top of the stroke (where the limit swith is set) when the hammer is at idle under pressure and then the tup should be thrown downward a little with little treadle depression and further down as you depress the treadle further...

Have a try reversing the pilots (tubes from the limit switch) on the spool valve.

You won't have to fight against the tup to slide your work piece between the dies and you'll get a way better control of the power of the blows...

 

Very nice and silent hammer, good job  ;)

Well after reading your PM and re-reading what I wrote on the previous post I think you should try to switch the tubes going from the spool valve to the cylinder...

I hope this time it will work.

Btw, is your treadle actuating a ball valve or a kind of On/Off air switch, I've read somewhere that Paul branch's plans ask for a switch where a ball or butterfly valve would offer more control with their 'metering ability'...

Mike, I reversed the hoses - no go   Yes, the exhaust is a butterfly valve because of it's linear metering.   Originally I used a Norgren valve but when it failed, they told me that delivery of a spool kit would take 2-3 weeks because they had to pull one from the assembly line and build it that particular valve....the price was almost that of a new valve.  So I replaced it with the 3/4" port Parker valve for nearly the price of the Norgren spool.  That valve leaked assembly grease where the pilot port is bolted to the end of the spool body.  MSC, the vendor, replaced it with no questions.  Thinking back on that today, I checked and found that the replacement valve is doing the same thing.  Go figure...So I'll call the manufacture Monday and see what they say.   Thanks for your help....Keith 

There's something wrong somewhere, that's sure, but where  :wacko:

I was pretty sure reversing the hoses at the cylinder was the trick and can't see why it doesn't work, sorry  :blink:

 

Hey, power hammer gurus, we need help here  :rolleyes:

Where are they all gone ? Was there a blacksmithing event last week end ?

from the short stroke I'm guessing you have the switching valve to close to the cylinder. If you have a 10" cyl, you should have about a 9" stroke.

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Here's a couple pictures of how my hammer is piped. It works great. There's some differences from how yours is set up. Hope this helps.
mike

Mike, after looking at your second photo, I can see that you have a different pilot valve arrangement.  The plans that I worked from have the pilot valve triggered against the tup itself rather than a short ramp in your hammer.  This would explain why it doesn't "park" in the up position.  How long is the  straight portion of your ramp?

 

Called Parker about the spool valves leaking where the pilot port is bolted to the valve body.   Tech support was outstanding.  They had engineers trying to figure out why it was leaking and folks pulling a new valve to ship it out to me today.  None of this "send it back to us and will look at it"  They scored a "10" today.

The ramp is 6 inches total, 4 inches straight, 1 inch taper each end.

Mike is that one of the hammers that John @ gearheart built?

A buddy and I each built one here, but we got the heads from John, and we hired Keane to come down and help with the final touches.

Thx Mike.....will fab the ramp this week.

...

After racking my brain, I finally solved the issue of the tup not parking in the up position.  Turns out that the spring tension on the butterfly exhaust valve was not making a tight seal.  Now I could say that I solved this by deductive reasoning or just admit that I stumbled  on it out of dumb luck.  Thanks to all of you for your help.......Keith

Video or it didn't happen  :P

 

Happy for you, and the exhaust valve leak is good addition to the troubleshooting checklist.

Hi Everybody

I'm looking to make this air hammer, does anybody else have contact information for Paul Branch and where I can get plans?

Thanks

Ron Kinyon “New Style” Pneumatic Hammer
Hammer Building Project Plans
Written by Paul Branch
Pine Bough Forge New Richmond Wisconsin

 

Thought I had more