Scroll ends and where to use them

[John B]

In response to Black Frogs' request to post pictures of the different scroll ends he had seen in an earlier post (botle openers), these samples were originally put together to illustrate the look of the scroll end, and where to use them. They are a bit worse for wear now, but hopefully will be of interest.

They can all be found in more detail in the CoSIRA book "Wrought Ironwork, a Manual for Craftsmen" download free and practice.

IMHO there are two basic types of genre for scroll ends, safe ones, where the sides are parallel and the scroll ends are inside the outer edges, and the more dangerous ones which project wider than the scroll body and can have very sharp ends which can snag clothes or limbs.

As a general rule, the safe ones are used on items below head height where people are passing.

They include Bevel ends, Leaf ends, Half penny snub ends, snub ends, rolled snub ends and parallel and tapered ribbon ends.




The more dangerous ones are used in situations where they are not likely to be in close proximity to passing bodies. That is above head height on gate overthrows, hanging sign brackets or in fireplaces as on firedogs/andirons.

Standard fishtail end, square fishtail end, fishtail knib end, and fishtail snub end.



You can see why they may be dangerous, these samples are only on 3/16"x5/8" flat bar.

The techniques for all these are similar, some just sit inside the bar width (safe), others are outside the bars width (dangerous)

Scrolls are usually made on flat bars so that the workpiece 'moves' as you pass it, much like italic writing, giving more character and dimension changes than when formed on round or square bar.

I hope these are of some use, and that you can make some sense from them. 

[Frosty]

Thanks again John. The first beveled scroll reminds me of a raptor hinged toe claw. Gives me pause for thought and ideas. Very cool, thanks again.

Frosty The Lucky.

[Black Frog]

Thanks John!  Seeing them all together is nice for comparison.

I have not done any beveled scrolls as of yet, but would like to soon.

 

Now I have to start thinking about the steps to end up with a nice bevel scroll....

[Frosty]

The beveling itself, if done right will turn the scroll. I don't know if that's how John does it but keeping it straight while beveling would be a trick so . . .

 

Frosty The Lucky.

[John B]

Hi Frosty, a couple of ways of doing them, both start off the same,

 

Draw a taper at the end on the thickness of the bar,

 

Then curl the end over with the bar on edge, whilst keeping it in a flat plane

 

Hammer the bevel on the outside of the curl, and this will tighten the scroll up,

 

then hammer the inside bevel with a round faced hammer and this will open the scroll up,

 

Place the flat scroll over an appropriate sized hole in a swage block or some other similar arrangement and start to push the centre down using the round faced hammer, this will start the twisting motion to set the scroll at 90 degrees to the main body of the bar

 

Adjust over the bick as required.

 

Second method, Draw a taper on the width of the bar,

 

Start to curl over the bick and it will start to form the scroll

 

by forging the outer edge bevel, it will start to wrap itself around the bick

 

Carry on until the required shape is achieved, you may have to adjust over a swge block (or you could use your hardie hole)

 

The fun is making these in pairs these can be left hand facing or right hand facing,

 

There is a good picture description in the CoSIRA book

[Frosty]

That's about how I thought it'd work but I didn't think of using an inside die/bick to control the form. Facing in opposition would look good.  Same idea as matching left and right lay twists on door pulls.This is a very pleasing form to me, if a little menacing. Yeah, I'm just drawn to dangerous things.

 

Thanks John.