Jon Smith Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 My buddy from diapers is scheduled to finally come back stateside from a year long tour of duty in South Korea in July, and I would love to build him a warfighter style knife with a mahogany (?) grip and blued furniture, which leads to my question. What method do y'all use to blue metal (probably mild steel, since I can't find wrought)? I have used Birchwood-Casey cold gun blue to restore a few firearms and sidearms, but I've never been completely satisfied, and I know I've seen some very well done guards around here before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 You can't find wrought in Lousiana? Have you checked old dock and shipyards along the river? sorry I can't help with the bluing question, I'd probably take it to a gun shop and have it done. Frosty the Lucky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Smith Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share Posted May 2, 2013 Hmm no I hadn't thought of the shipyards honestly. I may have to drive out there one day and look Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 A friend of mine used to pull wrought out of the Columbia River and I've found a little here and there on the coast and the Copper river. You can also talk to the local club guys, they'll have the contacts and locations. Frosty the Lucky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavala Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 Bronwells, sur-fin and google are good starts for metal bluing/patinas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navasky Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 Mark Lee Express Blue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wroughton Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 JAX brand is also good. Most of the traditional fire arm bluing compounds (Birchwood Casey) seem to work, around 2x as well as "ornamental" bluing compounds from Surfin or other companies. Your surfaces need to be uniform in finish and they must be C-L-E-A-N. A little warming up doesn't hurt either for your materials or patina solution. Also, smooth surfaces are a pain for cold bluing or other types of patina for that matter. You'll do better with a little "tooth". Side note: I have wrought iron. PM me if you'd like a chunk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DenB Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 Mark Lee Express Blue Yep No special tools or other Nasties polish degrease heat apply boil buff repete great home Blue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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