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I Forge Iron

forging a basic hook


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they are a good start the only thing I would add is you need to have a style for the end of the hook the blunt end makes them look unfinished. keep going you are on the right track

 

Kind of have to agree.... Needs more attention to end.... Sort of looks only half done... Other wise the taper and twist and bend look good.....

 

Dale

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Good start Tim. I agree with Rich, they only need a couple finishing touches.

 

Even twists are harder than most folk think, I hereby award you one twisted ATTABOY! The hook profile is attractive to the eye too, another bit not so easy to do. I hereby award you a hook ATTABOY!

 

The tapers to points are even and clean so another pointed ATTABOY!

 

Finials for coat hooks have some considerations, most importantly, they need to protect the clothing so they need to be reasonably wide and blunt. The finial scroll shown above works nicely if it's a wide enough turn to support a coat without too much point pressure. A knob is a nice finial, you see knobs on commercial coat hooks.
A reverse or fish tail scroll is very nice and they're very wide so they're safe for heavy sweaters and other delicates.

 

All in all, well done Tim. Keep the fires going and the hammer blurring. AND keep up with the pics, we love pics. and videos.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

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My pleasure Tim. There are all kinds of finishes and a lot depends on where you're putting a thing. Johnson's paste wax is good, it has a fair percentage of Carnuba so it's durable and doesn't stain.

 

Lots of folk favor more old timey finishes, bees wax and mixes are popular. For instance, Bees wax, linseed oil (boiled/unboiled?) and turpentine in a ratio that yields a consistency like shoe polish. Apply hot and let the linseed oil polymerize or it'll be a little sticky. Adding Japan drier really helps it set.

 

I have pieces that've hung outside here in Alaska for about 14 years now without rusting I used a similar mix only with parafin rather than bees wax.

 

Paint is always a choice that's as old as paint. I like a good acid etch epoxy primer under high end appliance epoxy of a color of the customer's choice. Rustoleum is good durable stuff as is Hammerite. There are high end truck paints like Imron(sp?) that hold up well but COST BUNCHES!!

 

There are various gun blueings that are nice finishes and you can always Packerize (or is that Parkerize?) which is a phosphate oxide finish. Really durable stuff and seriously rust resistant. The two easily come by are naval Jelly or Ospho, still spendy but good stuff.

 

I think that's my dos kopeks worth.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

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