ndnchf Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Hi Guys, Newbie here. I just picked up my first forge and 100 lb Fisher anvil. Its a Buffalo Forge, rivet forge ( think that's what these are referred to) with a small hand cranked blower. Its a little crusty looking, but the pan and legs are solid. The hood is a little worse for wear, but still servicable. I took the blower apart, cleaned and oiled it. It now works great. I've been reading through the files and I think I will use the Portland cement/sand mix to line the pan. What other improvements could be made to the little forge? I thought about cutting an access door in the rear to put longer pieces in. There is no fire pot on these. Has anyone added a fire pot somehow? Is it beneficial in this type of forge? I'll continue to search the archives, but would appreciate any comments. Thanks - Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pug}{maN Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 I see a model t wheel? It yours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butterfield Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 It looks like I have a simular forge, without the hood. I'd like to rig one up of some sort, I work outside the garage and have had trouble seeing the color of the steel in the sunlight. I added a little 10w oil to the open side if the blower (a little too much as it ran down to the ash pot and burned) - now it turns great. I lined mine with a layer if masonry mix, but as it isn't cast iron it wasn't neccissary. I also use some fire bricks to help get a deeper, contained charcoal fire, (I have a thread going with pictures). I bet the forge will work great, it took me awhile to learn how mine wanted to burn best. Happy forging! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ndnchf Posted February 4, 2013 Author Share Posted February 4, 2013 The blower would barely turn when I got it. But I partially disassembled it, cleaned out the debris and oilied all the bearings and gears. Now it turns smoothly and pumps out air nicely. I got another identical blower with it as a spare. Good eye Pugh Man. That's my 1924 Ford touring car in the background. Butterfield - I was just reading your thread about the fire brick. That looks like a simple, yet effective way to concentrate the fire. Do you have any photos of just the angle iron frame you made for it? I may try to do something similar. I will probably add a 4' stove pipe to the hood to keep the smoke out of my face. I'd like to also add a tong rack to the front of it somehow to keep tools handy. Has anyone done this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butterfield Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Sorry, I don't have any photos of just the frame. It's just 4 pieces of angle iron and two pieces of plate inside- I just laid out the bricks how I wanted them and cut and welded the steel around them, leaving the bricks removable/replaceable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 If your pan is cast iron, claying it will prevent cracking due to differential heating of the cast iron. Lining the pan with clay will also allow you to form a bowl depression around the grate to concentrate your coals a bit. Very handy thing to do, imo. One thing I would do at the outset, though, is to mount some lawnmower wheels on the thing so you can move it more readily. With a tong rack, clay lining and smoke stack, it's going to be a bit cumbersome to move otherwise. Certainly looks like good kit, though. Can't wait to see what you do with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ndnchf Posted February 4, 2013 Author Share Posted February 4, 2013 The pan is stamped steel, not cast iron. So maybe I don't need to line it. Its got some surface rust, but its quite solid. But I would like to make some sort of fire pot or enclosure, maybe like Butterfield did. Wheels would be a nice addition too. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Easiest way to make a fire pot in that forge is to line it with clay of some kind. Preserves the steel body for a bit longer, too. Always wanted to put really big wagon wheels on a forge. Haven't found a forge to do it with, but it's definitely on my list of things to do!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ndnchf Posted February 6, 2013 Author Share Posted February 6, 2013 I've decided to tear the forge down, bead blast and repaint it. I'm thinking about a couple of improvements. Looking around for something to use as a fire pot of sorts, I found this pressed steel brake drum (yes Pugh Man, it a model T drum). It's not very big, but it seems like it would help contain the fire, but not be too high in order to rake in more coal as needed. What do you think - would it be beneficial? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 I wouldn't bother with the brake drum. A rivet forge was designed for heating rivets on building sites, a really deep fire was not required. Just use it, mess around, make things and get the experience under your belt. If this craft sticks, it certainly won't be your last forge. Its important to get working, so much of this craft is about doing and as your experience builds you'll have all sorts of ideas for other forges. Personally, my brake drum forge went thru 4 different incarnations, two firebrick modifications before I found a great deal on a cast iron forge and gave brake drum version #4 to an Iron in the Hat event for a newbie to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ndnchf Posted February 7, 2013 Author Share Posted February 7, 2013 I plan to do more than just rivets with this, so I'd like to make it a little more efficient if possible. Most likely I will get a bigger forge, but this is a good place to start. I have most of it blasted and painted, so it should be going back together this weekend. I've not done anything to the hood yet. I may just put that on when needed, its only 3 bolts. I appreciate everyone's input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pug}{maN Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 I used my rivet forge ln its stock configuration to make tongs ,hardie tools , all the normal Nick Maki stuff. What is it you're making you think it won't do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ndnchf Posted February 7, 2013 Author Share Posted February 7, 2013 I will mostly be making simple, small stuff. Cooking utensiles, lifting hooks, lamp holders, tent stakes and such. I think it will be ok in stock configuration. I just throught that while I had it apart, it would be a good time to make any small improvements I could. Adding this drum would be a simple bolt-in addition. I just throught it would hold the coal together a little better, acting somehwhat like a fire pot. It would also help proctect the bottom of the forge from direct heat. Maybe I'm over thinking it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pug}{maN Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 It's all in how you build a fire in it . You will learn what works and what don't, Just have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhettbarnhart Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 i use a rivet forge and i would not want that brake drum in there.Just give it a good lining of your choice(i use plain old clay)and start heating and beating :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgewayforge Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 Use it for a week, then see if you like it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck in Ms Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 Very nice forge you have there. I disagree with the popular vote about having to line these little forges. If you keep them clean and dry after each use they show no signs of wear after years of work. I have used one for years doing demos and now my kids are starting to use it a lot. It looks as good as the day I bought it. It seems like the liner would trap moisture if stored for a time, which would promote rust that you can't see. As mentioned above it will add considerable weight. You can reach a welding heat by starting a clean fire then place a three or four inch square or round piece of wood on top of the fire and pack damp coal around the wood tight. I use a short round piece of fire wood for this. Once the coal starts to stick together pull the wood out and you have a good deep fire. This will last for a quite a while for you. This is not an industrial forge by any means but I have routinely worked 5/8 square bar with no problems and heated small hammer heads for reshaping very quickly. I hope you give it a try as is before you do any major improvements. It might just surprise you. Good luck however you go sir, Chuck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pug}{maN Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 Used mine for almost a year with no clay or anything still looks great no signs of were.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ndnchf Posted February 8, 2013 Author Share Posted February 8, 2013 I'm just about finished with sandblasting and paint. I started putting it back together last night. No brake drum, no lineing, just stock. The hood is too big for my blast cabinet, so I may put it in an electrolysis tank this weekend for de-rusting. But in the meantime, I'll fire it up and get it broken in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 If you have half a dozen fire bring laying about, you can posstion them to any size fire you might need.... Thats how I run mine.... Fast, Cheep and Easy.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ndnchf Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 I finished refurbishing the forge this weekend. I disassembeled and bead blasted everything. I decided to replaces the sheet metal of the wind-screen. It was pretty rusty and thin. So I found a new piece of sheet steel and made a new one. The top hood was solid and I added a 2' chimney pipe. The only modification I made was to add a mouse hole door in the back of the wind-screen. This is to allow longer pieces to be put into the forge if needed. I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out. I just need to wait a day or two for the paint to cure and it'll be ready to fire up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pug}{maN Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Turned out nice! Looking forward to seeing it put to use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck in Ms Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 I would be proud to own one like that. Have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Wow. That's fantastic work, chief! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butterfield Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 That looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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