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I Forge Iron

Bevel jig


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Here is a trick I was taught by my teacher Bill Wyant many years ago for getting the bevel to the choil line up straight and matching up on both sides.

It is simply a clamp made of scrap. its about 5inches long, and 3/16 inch thick, I drilled for 1/4-20 bolts and as you can see in the photos they tighten up rather nice. I ground the insides with 440 grit to prevent scratching the blade. The advantage of this mounting system is that the angles of the blade can be matched by tightening one side more than the other for a close fit.

To use just let the file edge ride along the side of the jig until you get to the half way mark you already made on the blade edge, then turn over, and do the other side, after its finished remove the jig. I find it best to use the file style that has no edge teeth, but rather smooth edged to avoid damage to the jig.

 

 

 

Edited by Steve Sells
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  • 3 years later...

Well it's fairly obvious to me Steve and I've never made a knife!

The first line together with the pictures is all the explanation required, " ... getting the bevel to the choil line up straight and matching up on both sides..."

Unless one does not understand what the choil is, which I admit I had to lookup, not being a bladesmith.

Sometimes rephrashing can make a difference, so.....

The guide is a filing stop, ensuring that the choil terminates at the same point on both sides of the blade. Keeps it all nice and symmetrical like :D

....does that help at all Nebular?

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2 hours ago, MrDarkNebulah said:

Im sorry but i don't see how this is used. I just can't visualize it, most likely because I've only sharpened one or two knives. How is it used?

I think that this jig is to make your bevel and ricaso have a clean transition with a straight coil line. You would put the knife in the jig so that the jig goes right up to the edge of the ricaso and is right ontop of where you want the coil line / plunge line to be. You then run your file along the jig until you reach the center line where the two sides of the bevel are going to meet. You then do this to the other side. The end result is a nice clean plunge line. I can imagine getting this area clean and precise in the general grinding on a belt sander or even a file to be difficult. That's probobly why Steve made up this jig. I could be wrong but this is how I would go abouts using this jig, and I probobly will use it too. Hope this helps and thank you Steve for the jig!

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  • 1 month later...

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